Divers with a wide range of skill levels may enjoy Cozumel. For wall dives in particular, an experienced guide will add considerably to your safety and comfort. Strong currents can create exciting conditions and a few surprises. When high-velocity water runs into a coral mass, zones of rapid upwelling and downwellings can occur. Being caught in one of the down-draft currents is similar to being flushed down a gigantic toilet, and divers must be aware of their depth and surroundings at all times. Swim sideways to exit a vertical current stream.
A little specialized practice on buoyancy control, drift-diving techniques, and deep-diving procedures with a qualified instructor can go a long way toward ensuring a pleasant, safe trip. Novices should never place themselves in any situation where loss of buoyancy control can result in rapid ascents. Diving on or near the lip of sheer walls is safe only for experienced divers and when accompanied by a qualified divemaster. Know your limits and don’t push the envelope.
Paraiso (Paradise) Reef North is a series of backbone-like strips of coral running parallel to shore. The series can be intersected by swimming perpendicular to the shore out to a depth of about 45-50 feet. Access is via the concrete steps at La Ceiba Hotel or the small beach cove at Sol Caribe Hotel. Paraiso Reef lies just seaward of the sand flat that is marked at its shoreward edge by a sunken airplane. To find Paraiso North, swim from the plane straight offshore toward the wall, bearing slightly to the north. It is about a five-minute swim from the plane. The reef consists of large coral heads and sponges up to six feet in diameter. Large schools of iridescent blue chromis form clouds above the reef, and if you look carefully around the sandy bases of big coral heads you may see the blue, white, and yellow-striped toadfish. Paraiso North is not large, a few hundred feet long, and is probably best visited as part of a longer dive, perhaps starting at this reef and proceeding inward to end near or at the airplane.
The Airplane is near La Ceiba Hotel and the Sol Caribe Hotel. Most of the terrain is flat, and snorkelers will find this an excellent spot to see fish and sea fans. The plane was sunk here for a movie many years ago and La Ceiba Hotel arranged for it to remain as a dive attraction. Storms and waves have taken their toll, but the wreckage provides an excellent habitat for all kinds of marine life. Due to easy access and light at the hotels, this is a perfect spot for a night dive.There can be lots of boat traffic in this area, so always be aware while surfacing or snorkeling to make sure boat drivers see you. Near shore there are some elkhorn coral heads and long spine sea urchins are common around these coral heads. Be careful not to touch or step on them. At night, basket stars are frequently seen spread out on the top of gorgonians feeding in the dark. Look for large rainbow parrotfish feeding on the bottom. The shallows are patrolled by territorial damselfish that, despite their diminutive size, are inclined to nip at offending divers. The shelf breaks at the edge of a sand flat about 30-40 feet deep, where a low-profile coral reef replaces the gorgonian beds a few hundred feet from shore. The fish here are accustomed to handouts so don’t be surprised if you’re mobbed by sergeant majors or chubs looking for a treat. If you follow the edge of the break in slope to the north in front of the Sol Caribe complex, you’ll find the ribs of an old wooden boat at a depth of about 30 feet. The boat is a hangout for schools of grunts, snappers, and the occasional grouper. Look out for sand tilefish in this area. A bit further out there is an old twin-engine prop plane marked by a buoy. Look out for sharp metal edges while swimming around this wreck.
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