Described as one island, it is actually two rocks that you can pass between when conditions are calm. The island juts out into the Atlantic Ocean, home to a few frigate birds, hearty cactus, and other viney vegetation able to withstand the force of the wind and the sea. The dive starts with a backroll right next to the sheer rock wall that drops to over 150 feet. We drift down through a cold thermocline current and everybody is shivering. Luckily it doesn’t last too long and we are back into warm water again. Along the sheer wall we see protruding vase sponges, black coral, wire coral and colorful encrusting sponges. As we reach 60 feet a green moray eel comes out to greet us from his crevice hideaway. As the wall flattens out it becomes more encrusted with stony corals and large sponges in a myriad of irregular shapes. Reef fish are abundant and as with all the St. Giles sites, you may be rewarded with pelagics, and surely with the large midnight parrotfish foraging the reef.
At the easternmost end of Tobago is a cluster of offshore rocks centered on the uninhabited island of St. Giles. Uninhabited by people, that is, as large colonies of frigates, boobies, pelicans, and tropic birds call this island home. Around these rocks the diving is very exciting and being further offshore, attracts plentiful marine life. There are more stony corals than sponges, unlike Speyside, and the terrain is large boulders and rocky cliffs covered with encrusting growth rather than a coral reef.
Like all good things, it comes at a price, being diveable only in calm conditions by experienced divers who don’t get seasick! From Charlotteville the boat trip is relatively sheltered, except for the area nearest the island. From Speyside, the 20 minute ride is more exposed along breathtaking chiseled cliffs and mountains covered with hearty vegetation and cactus. Competent divemasters are needed to lead these dives. Equally important is an experienced boat driver who can deftly maneuver close to the rocks and follow the surface buoy in rough waves.
© 2001 Linda Gettmann
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