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Star Dancer Diving in PNG, Part IV

© Linda Gettmann

So here we are, in the middle of nowhere, experiencing some fabulous diving onboard a luxurious live-aboard. Pinch me, it’s time to wake up—no we really are here—but how did we get here and what’s so great about the Star Dancer?

First of all, unless you live in Australia or The Philippines, PNG is a lengthy journey. The main approaches seem to be from Cairns Australia, Singapore or Manila to Port Moresby. Whatever way you choose, from the USA it’s a haul and expensive. Air Niugini has the lock on routes into and around the country so you’re at their mercy. We were, however, pleasantly surprised at their efficiency and on-time flights. Maybe we were lucky, but it all worked just fine. From Port Moresby you’ll need a short hop (1 hr.) over to Rabaul to catch the Star Dancer. Don’t need to spend any time sightseeing in Port Moresby, not a place for tourists. The airport is new and comfortable, so that’s a plus. Schedules seem to necessitate an overnight in Port Moresby. Stay in your hotel, enjoy a nice dinner and get over some of your jet lag.

Star Dancer personnel meet you at the Kokopo Airport near Rabaul and transport everyone and the mounds of baggage in several vans. It’s about a 45-minute ride around Simpson Harbor to the dock.

The 120-foot ship is well appointed with 8 staterooms in various configurations. Ours had a huge picture window and a large bathroom including a tub. A large main lounge where meals are served, topside sundeck, outside covered deck, photo lab and light table, videos, CD’s, and a TV serve to make your time onboard very comfortable. All cabins have private baths and showers as well as air conditioning. The dive deck is spread out enough so you have room to gear up. Large camera tables with several rinse buckets are nearby, along with a separate area for charging batteries. The crew is wonderful—you’ll love the great meals and pampering. Just hang out the little card on your door at night and they’ll deliver hot coffee to your room in the morning—ah yes, it truly is paradise!

Peter Hughes’ Dancer fleet furnishes guests with thick, fluffy robes that are so great to cuddle up in after a dive. The dive staff, cabin crew, and kitchen magicians make the trip extra special. Need something? —Just ask, they’re very accommodating and aim to please. The boat is well kept, clean, and a great home base for such a wild adventure.

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