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Ghost Ships of Truk Lagoon

© Linda Gettmann

They called it Operation Hailstone. That morning-February 16, 1944-bombs rained down from Allied planes falling on the unsuspecting Japanese ships and planes based in Truk, the most important Japanese military base in Micronesia. When the smoke cleared the following day, over 60 ships and 250 aircraft had been destroyed. This military debris became World War II's legacy to these islands and launched a steady stream of scuba divers from around the world, developing the area's blossoming tourist industry.

In 1989 Truk became Chuuk (chuke) State, one of the Federated States of Micronesia, along with Yap, Pohnpei, and Kosrae. These 607 green dots in the blue Pacific east of The Philippines stretch west toward Hawaii 1,800 miles. An exhausting 30-hour trip from the west coast of the United States through Guam rewards intrepid travelers with glorious views from the airplane of jungle mountaintops and flat coral atolls encircled by sparkling blue water. The remains of war relics scattered along the shoreline and just beneath the surface of the clear lagoon signal your arrival in Chuuk on Moen Island's airstrip dating back to WW II. Chuuk's license plates proclaim "Divers Heaven", an accurate description of its watery depths.

Submerged 55 years in tropical seas, the ghost ships of Truk Lagoon are transformed into lavish artificial reefs covered with the most impressive soft corals in the world. Whether diving from one of the live-aboard vessels or with a land-based dive shop, these wrecks captivate you.

Fujikawa Maru A favorite with divers for many reasons-the graceful soft corals in a myriad of colors, numerous artifacts, prolific marine life-this 437 foot armed aircraft ferry sits upright in 110 feet of water with her rear mast protruding from the lagoon. Schools of baitfish swarm the masts attracting larger fish as a few wary barracuda patrol the length of the vessel. A large platform on the bow holds an almost unrecognizable gun draped in coral and sponge growth pointing at an imaginary target. Boxes of unused shells sit beside the gun ready for the next attack. The ship is enveloped in waving soft coral branches, zigzag oysters, black coral trees, gorgonians and whip corals reaching out for passing divers. The stack starts in 30 feet of water with the deck at 70 feet. Venturing deeper into the cargo holds reveals a complete zero fuselage, ammunition, machine guns and airplane wings in the bow section. The rear holds appear to be mostly empty. The passageways are heavily laden with marine growth and lead to the galley and baths with their tiled tubs. On February 17, 1994 a commemorative plaque was placed on deck marking the 50th anniversary. It reads: Fujikawa Maru Sunk February 17, 1944 during US Navy's "Operation Hailstone". This plaque placed February 1994 on the 50th anniversary of this action is dedicated to the preservation of and respect for the remaining ships, aircraft, and artifacts as a heritage for the people of Truk Lagoon. Since depths here don't allow for lots of bottom time, at least two dives on this wreck are needed to cover its massive length.

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