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Step 2: Soak the roots overnight in a bucket of water. If you want, you can add a weak solution of rooting activator which contains synthetic Vitamin B-1 (like SUPERThrive™). However, a mild solution of "willow water" will also work... if you have access to willows, that is. This procedure rehydrates the roots. [Hint: If you have added supplements to your soaking water, save the water for use later in the planting process.] Step 3: Prepare the hole into which the rose is to be planted. As a rule of thumb, dig the hole about 1½ times as deep and 1½ times as wide as the root system is long. Mound a small pile of soil in the center of the hole as a support for the rose's root crown. If you have properly prepared your soil, no additional materials need to be added to the hole. However, if your rose bed is new or your soil is low in nutrient value, you may want to add a small amount of ground phosphate rock or bone meal to the bottom of the hole. I also sprinkle a dusting of powdered kelp into the bottom and sides of the hole, although this is not required. Step 4: Plant the rose according to your hardiness zone. In all cases, spread the roots down and over the top of the mounded soil in the hole's bottom. Ensure equal distribution of the roots around the mound. Remember: Your placement of those roots will determine how they will grow in the future. Never wrap roots around the rose. The depth to which you plant the rose depends on your hardiness zone. For Zones 9 - 10, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are the width of three fingers above the soil line, but do not expose the root crown. For own-root roses, plant so the top of the root crown is at the soil line. [Hint: To determine the soil line, lay a stake or broom handle across the top of the open hole.]
For a complete listing of article comments, questions, and other discussions related to Mark Whitelaw's Rose Gardening topic, please visit the Discussions page. |
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