More Than Just a Pretty Flower


© Mark Whitelaw

Roses can do more than decorate your dining room table. The tangy fruit of the rose, called a "rose hip," adds zest to jams, jellies and soups. The leaves are blended into soothing teas. And the petals add magic to candies, syrups, honeys, vinegars, oils and sauces.

Exotic? Not really. Roses are a very close relative to most of our fruiting trees like the apple, pear, peach and cherry. Also related are the strawberry and raspberry.

As such, roses have been used in creating culinary delights for centuries; the earliest record dating way back to ancient Mesopotamia in the seventh century BC. Cuneiform tablets from the era describe roses as an essential ingredient in the pharmaceuticals of the day.

Ancient Rome had become obsessed with growing roses by the first century BC; using them in thousands of recipes, cosmetics and medicinal treatments. Demand was so high by the first century AD, that growing roses in "forcing houses" or importing them from the furthest reaches of the empire became a profitable year-round business.

Rosewater, a common flavoring agent in cakes, cookies and pastries, had become hugely popular by the tenth century. Ancient Persia cornered the market and exported it to most of Europe, North Africa and Asia. Virtually every maiden, from the time she was old enough to work the hearth, learned the Art of Attar.

By far, the most well recorded of the ancient recipes come from the medieval fourteenth century where roses were used extensively in fish and game sauces as well as in desserts, candies and preserves. Many a royal chef prepared such delights as Roseye of Fysshe (Fish in Rose Sauce, usually prepared with loach). Roseye was a blend of the three most exotic ingredients of the time -- almonds, saffron and red rose petals. Rede Rose (Red Rose Pudding) and Joncate with Hurtilberyes (Junket with Blueberries) were made from rosewater or rose petals, and served as an expression of nobility to guests.

By the nineteenth century, roses were widely used throughout the world as coloring and flavoring agents in teas, candies, pastries, sauces, oils and conserves. Rose Honey was used to preserve hams for winter, Rose Sugar to flavor tarts, Rose Candy to serve as treats, and Rose Vinegar to flavor vegetables and greens.

In fact, it wasn't until the middle of the twentieth century, when pesticide use became the norm rather than the exception, that every day cooking with roses as an ingredient went into disfavor.

     

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Here's the follow-up discussion on this article: View all related messages

38.   Aug 24, 1998 7:38 PM
I grow AD, William. It's excellent on fragrance and attar, but my specimen is only three years old and doesn't put out a lot of blooms just yet.

It's certainly worth a try for your cooking rose col ...


-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw


37.   Aug 24, 1998 2:40 PM
Hello, Mark, I am resurrecting the culinary rose thread. Have you found any other roses that you would add to your "recommended" list. I am putting out questions about some of the noisettes as culin ...

-- posted by WilliamG


36.   Feb 24, 1998 2:45 PM
William,

I have not grown this rose, opting for one of its "cousins" called 'Autumn Damask.' I group the Portlands as do Beales and Shoup -- as a Damask. I do know it grows well in Georgia where o ...


-- posted by Mark_Whitelaw


35.   Feb 24, 1998 11:32 AM
Mark, Someone described Rose de Rescht. It's a 'Portland' rose, grows about three feet tall, and has intensely fragrant magenta blooms. It would probably be a good candidate for stallized rose petals ...

-- posted by WilliamG


34.   Feb 24, 1998 8:51 AM
There are now a Cramoisi Superieur, a Dortmund and a Louis Philippe planted in the garden and as soon as I can find one I may plant the miniature rose "Candy Sunblaze" in the herb bed.
I will be gett ...

-- posted by WilliamG





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