Azalea Cuttings

been preparred. Then put aside to drain thoroughly before finally transferred under fluorescent lights, or use a window which is not in direct sun. To retain high humidity around the cuttings, cover with a plastic dome or place the pot inside a plastic bag.

Check the cuttings every few weeks. You may have to hydrate the mix if it is showing signs of drying out. Avoid too much misting and keeping the mixture too wet because rotting is the number one cause of failed attempts. Remove any cuttings which rot or if leaves turn brown.

New Growth
The cuttings should root and start to produce new foliage in about 6-8 weeks. New growth may come before the cuttings are properly rooted into their new media, so give them plenty of time. You can gently tuck on a cutting to test if it is rooted, but since this may be lethal to young cuttings I recommend simply giving them adequate time to settle in, at least 2 months.

Once well established you can transfer the cuttings to individual pots, but do this gradually. The cuttings must get used to the lower humidity conditions outside the plastic bag. Start by opening the bag for 1 hour after new growth appear. Gradually open the bag a little longer every day over a period of several days.

After the weather warms in June you can place winter cuttings outdoors in a sheltered position which is not subjected to hot dry sun or too much wind. These cuttings can usually be grow outdoors next winter if given protection from harsh drying winds.

Summer cuttings can be transferred outdoors in early fall and then overwintered in a greenhouse, coldframe, or heavily mulched.

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Sources used:
- "Dormant Azalea Cuttings", Donald W. Hyatt.
- "Azaleas: Propagation", Alabama Cooperative Extension, Publication ANR-200.
- "Azalea Propagation", Azalea Society of America.

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