Azalea Cuttings
As mentioned, even cuttings without leaves on the stem can be rooted. To facilitate this you should strip the outer bark layer on each side of the cutting and at least penetrate through to the cambium layer. Cambium is the layer of stem cells found between the wood and the bark. To remove the bark layer without damaging the cutting, pinch it between the nails of your thumb and forefinger. Using your other hand, pull the cutting with slight pressure. The nails should strip the outer bark layer away. For tougher bark, you can also use a knife or garden shears and make a shallow scraping cut along the length of the cutting. This will open up the meristem tissue on the stem and will increase chance of success. Rooting Hormones Striking the Cutting. A good striking mixture can be made by combining perlite with peatmoss sphagnum or potting soil. Since Azaleas prefer relatively acidic soils, with a pH value between 5.0-5.5, you usually get best results by mixing 50% perlite, 25% peatmoss sphagnum, and 25% potting soil. A bag of seed starting mixture can also be used. The cutting should be placed in pots or flats filled with slightly damp mixture. This will provide for very good drainage while still retaining moisture around the cutting. Make a small hole with a pencil and position the cutting so that the stem is completely covered but without the leaves actually touching the mixture. Use your fingers to gently firm the mixture around the base of the cutting. I prefer to put the pot back into a pan to wick up water from below after all cuttings have been
The copyright of the article Azalea Cuttings in Seeds & Plants is owned by Kenneth Joergensen. Permission to republish Azalea Cuttings in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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