Modifying a Dream Car (Part 1)
The way I have pro touring type cars categorized in my head goes something like this: firstly, there's the suitable 60's to 70's intermediate or sports car mildly modified for better power, handling, and braking; that's kind of the lowest rung on the ladder. Secondly, there's the car from any decade from the 50's on to the present, depending on personal preference, that's modified for the same characteristics only more so. I prefer something pre - catalytic converter and '73 or earlier for reasons of legality and exhaust backpressure. Currently anything '73 and earlier is exempt from emissions standards in America. If I understand the rules right, that's due to change in 2004 when anything '74 and earlier is exempt and so on into the future. That's if they don't change the rules by then. If this is to be a dream car, taste is important, so choosing a car that looks right to you is a big factor. Lastly, there's the super duper dream car. It may cost a fortune. It may cost hundreds of hours in research and build time. But it's as good as you can reasonably do. It's kind of like the batmobile if an interested shade tree mechanic were to put it together.
As far as a regular dream car is goes, the frame is the first concern. Most cars from the mid 1960's on use front and back subframes and a unibody on top. If you really must choose a car like this there are two main things you can do about that to get a stiff frame for better handling. You can go all out and get a full tube frame, square or round, and install it under the body. That's pretty expensive, so I'd save it for the batmobile type car. You can go the easier way and put in subframe connectors. Get the kind that weld in even if you have to go to a welding shop and have them installed.
You need some kind of rollbar or cage. This isn't just for safety. It's to stiffen up the chassis. They really are cheaper than you might think. You can get a nice cage for like $150 bucks. If you aren't a welder, then again have it installed. A couple of tips about rollcages. It's better if you can go on through the sheetmetal and weld the cage to the frame. It's safer and stiffer that way. You can also put padding on the cage where you might conceivably hit it with your body. As long as we are putting in a cage why not put in special racing type seats with a racing harness anchorred to the cage. You'll be safer and the seat and harness will help you drive better too. In those tight turns the seat and harness will hold you securely so you can concentrate on the driving and won't be distracted by trying to hold your body still.
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