Yeas and Neighs, For and Against!


© Carolan Nathan

Since time immemorial, there has been a struggle between good and bad and nothing has changed except change itself. One man’s meat is another man’s poison and so it goes.

For many traditional winemakers, the organic movement is a threat. For distributors who are overstocked with non-organic wines, the organic movement is a threat. For wine sellers whose shelves are filled with traditional type wines that they know will keep and keep till kingdom come because they have had preservatives added, organics are a threat. Why, you may enquire.

Well, it’s rather simple. Money and power, besides being most people’s motivators, are a major cause for the proliferation of chemicals and pesticides and, more recently, the advent of genetically modified organisms. Grapes can be manipulated by the use of pesticides and chemical nutrients to give a higher yield, there are fewer pests, and faster growing crops. The negative side of this is that soil becomes sterile, there is limited lifespan for the vine and cancer can evolve in the workers on the land, and may filter down to the consumer.

Manipulating wines with chemical adjustments allows a consistent flavour to match consumers ‘palate expectations’, reduces year-to-year and intra-region taste variability, can ‘rescue’ poor years crops, and assures shipping and shelf stability. Organics offer a range of tastes and there are no side effects because of the additives.

It is rather interesting that the organic movement is expanding constantly in Europe but there is no great hullabaloo about it. In many cases it is overt. Many European organic wines are not labeled as such mainly because they have had a bad rap, due to the fact that they really were not very good and spoiled easily. However, for the past 15 years or so, a number of European winemakers have been pioneering old and trusted ways of growing grapes and making wine, and now some really fine organic wines are emerging.

Even in the USA, winemakers from California, Washington State and Oregon have converted to organic viniculture and viticulture, or are in the process of converting. Bonterra and Fetzer being a couple worth mentioning.

There is resistance by suppliers and distributors in the USA to cannibalize existing products, they wish to protect the 99.9% of winemakers who are making traditional wines but as I mentioned earlier, the struggle goes on. I just facilitate information.

Bottoms up!

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