Straight from the Winemaker's mouth


I was fortunate to interview a charming Organic winemaker hailing from Friuli, one of my favourite regions of Italy. Mauro Braidot, owner of the Mont'Albano vineyard which is situate in Colloredo di Monte Albano in the shade of its famous castle.

In 1985 Mauro decided it was time to change to organic winemaking. At that time there was no legislation to support the changeover, but he and a number of other winemakers including Azienda Agricola Ottomarzo in the Veneto region, were willing to pioneer Organic viniculture and viticulture for their own health and personal satisfaction.

Taking all the risks involved, the first year of operation was very difficult. The soil in which the vines were grown was stressed out from over-cultivation and conventional techniques of fertilization. But after 3 to 4 years of diligent work, Braidot and his associates learned to cultivate the method Biologique using simple and ancient techniques - copper, sulphur and seaweeds to defend the vines from disease and goat's manure to fertilize the land.

In 1990 came a turning point when the 1st Certification for Biologique was awarded in the Veneto. This guaranteed production to consumers who wanted organic wines. Now new technology could be implemented; maximizing the timing of harvesting from cutting of grapes to vinification; selecting, collecting and bringing the grapes in from the fields in special boxes to protect the grapes; using latest technology in pressing of the grapes - air pumps which press horizontally, the berries being squeezed not broken so there is far less contamination; regulation by community legislation in every phase of production.

Roses are grown between the rows of vines - their colors and perfumes attract insects - and are the first to be attacked. This signals the winemaker so copper and sulfur can be used to protect the vines.

Around their properties are built six to nine feet hedges to diminish contamination between organic and traditional cultivation, and to create a natural refuge for friendly insects. Friendly ladybugs are used to eat the bad bugs and scent traps are laid with a certain feramore scent that confuses the male insect. He flies away and therefore does not impregnate the female, thus minimizing the problem of pests.

These winemakers are passionate about organic cultivation. They do it for they love the land and respect those who live on it and draw their nourishment from it. For them it is a raison d'etre.

Organic wines from Ottomarzo include Bianco di Custoza DOC, Bardolino Chiaretto DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Recioto and Valpolicella Classico Superiore. They also produce Grappa and Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Their vineyards are located near Lake Garda and north-east of Verona. tell: 39 045 6861760, fax: 39 045 6861245

The copyright of the article Straight from the Winemaker's mouth in Organic Food & Wine is owned by Carolan Nathan. Permission to republish Straight from the Winemaker's mouth in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

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