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British Foods, mostly Cheese!

© Carolan Nathan

Reading current magazines, we learn there is a new awareness regarding British food amongst the more educated public. I will let you into a secret, we had all those foods and chefs back in the 50's, we just did not go public and being our nature to keep quiet about things, we did not share our good fortune. However, in these techno times, publicity is important.

Since the time of William the Conqueror in 1066, cheese has played an important part in both the diet and economy of the British. But over the past two decades there has been an upsurge in the making of cheese and being a Brit, I am in the process of writing about the great variety of farm cheeses produced across the British Isles by cheesemakers who are passionate about what they do. In fact, Wales, Scotland and England can boast over 450 unique Farm cheeses.

Organic cheeses are gaining a foothold in the market with over 75 organic cheeses made by cheesemakers certified by the Soil association.

My first encounter was deep in the Cotswolds at the Gloucester farmer's market with Gloucestershire chef, Robert Rees, a champion of excellence in home grown local foods. There I was introduced to Melissa Ravenhill of Birdwood Farm, a small organic dairy farm producing a prize winning range of traditional cheeses from home produced milk; Double Gloucester, Birdwood Blue Heaven and smoked Birdwood Dunlop. Birdwood Farm still uses old, established methods much like it was done over 100 years ago.

The owners of Windrush Valley Organic Farm specialize in Goat Cheeses and using milk from their own herd produce quality products like the delicate Chevre Blanc, Dainty Herb and Garlic Herb. Windrush Farm is a small, quite recent addition to family cheesemakers in the UK but their dedication to quality is unmistakeable! Ravens Oak Dairy is becoming known for its award winning organic cheeses which are made using vegetarian and GMO free rennet. Their traditional Cheshire cheese is made in an environmentally friendly system and the dairy herd grazes in clover rich pasture. Cow cheeses are Ravens Oak and Burland Green Brie. Swanley and Whitehaven Brie, winner of Best New Cheese in 1999 are the two Goat cheeses. The Sheep cheeses are Bunbury, a Gold Medal Winner, and Radmore Brie. There are also the Buffalo cheeses Spurstow, winner of Best Fresh Cheese in 2001, and Brindley Brie.

One of my favourite cheeses is Cotherstone which is a flaky textured, semi hard white cheese perfect with a glass of chilled white Italian wine. Made solely by Joan Cross at her Quarry House Farm, it can be found at Neals Yard in Covent Garden and Boroughs Market, Harvey Nichols Food Store and Selfridges.