Seed Starting Made Easy


© Deborah Turton
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Starting seeds may seem intimidating. Sometimes the directions are complicated and time consuming. They can include bleaching your pots, specialized lights, handmade mixes, and precise temperature control. Well, it's a lot easier than that. I use a simple, no precise control on anything method, and my seeds have always started and done well. The secret is that seeds sprout; they're made to do that. You just have to take advantage of it.

Why start your own seeds You can pick your own varieties. You can grow healthier seedlings: no insect infestations, no spindling seedlings, and no hidden diseases. You can have the seedlings ready when you are (in theory). Finally, You can get better germination rates if you start your seeds indoors rather than outdoors.

Where to start You can start your seeds anywhere you can set up a shelf with a light. I use a steel shelf in a cubby in my office. I've also used a closet or a table in an empty room. A lot of seeds start best at warm temperatures (70-75 F) and grow better at cooler temperatures (60-65F). However, any room that is comfortable to you should be good enough for most seeds. One common warm spot to use is the top of the refrigerator, but make sure you put the pots under lights as soon as the seeds sprout.

When to start your seeds Look on the back of the seed package. I know this sounds too easy, but it works. The directions should tell you when to start the seeds in relation to the last frost date. To find this date, call your local county extension agent. Then, add extra time for plants such as peppers and eggplants that can take up to 3 weeks to germinate. Some vegetables, such as broccoli and squash, do not like to be in pots very long. They germinate quickly, so don't start them too early.

What pots to use I don't use starting trays. The one time I tried to use them, I killed seedlings while transplanting them. I had a tough time extracting one small plant out without breaking another one. Now, I use six pack plastic seedling containers or small plastic pots to start my seeds. I can easily extract one seedling from these containers without harming the others.

Peat pots are another popular choice. I've found that these pots dry out quickly, so they need more frequent watering. In addition, they don't always break down in the soil quickly enough so your plants become root bound in the garden. Always poke holes in the sides and bottoms before putting the pot in the garden. Because they dry out quickly, you have to completely bury the pot, or it will wick water away from the plant even when it's in the garden.

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Here's the follow-up discussion on this article: View all related messages

6.   Mar 1, 1999 5:39 AM
John,
That's basically what I have. I have a black metal utility shelf with five shelves on it. The spacing looks something like this

shelf1---------------

...


-- posted by DeborahT


5.   Feb 28, 1999 3:50 PM
The light stand is several years old, and I could not find them in Johnny's this year. Its not very difficult to make but at least two four foot flourescent light fixtures (shop lights) are needed. ...

-- posted by 99john


4.   Feb 22, 1999 7:32 AM
Is the plan for setting up the lights easy? I'm trying to concentrate on emphasizing the easy for the beginning organic gardener. I don't want to overwhelm anyone.

Why not start more orchids, a ...


-- posted by DeborahT


3.   Feb 21, 1999 12:25 PM
Nice article!! The peat pot suggestion was right on. For a couple of years, I started a sugar enhanced sweet corn in peat pots. The first years crop was quite successful. Without planting a lot of ...

-- posted by 99john


2.   Feb 6, 1999 7:42 AM
Last year I started my spiach outside in worm casings. Theywere pretty much pure wrom casings I gathered from around mycompost. It didn't work too well. I think because there were too many spaces b ...

-- posted by DeborahT





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