Pufferbelly on a Roll

Tom Roehl spent many years with Stouffer's Restaurants; George Lewis is a retired architect. For the past two decades, Roehl and Lewis have pooled their talents, turning old buildings into fine dining establishments. Their efforts are much appreciated by diners in northeast Ohio.

Together, the two men own four restaurants. There's the Kent Pufferbelly and a sister restaurant in Berea, both restored train stations. There's also a restored fire station in Erie, Pennsylvania. A few years ago, the duo proved they could restore old barges as well as old buildings. To see the results of their handiwork, book a table at Hornblowers in the Cleveland flats (phone 216-363-1151), voted one of Ohio's 10 Best spots for seafood.

Although Roehl politely declined my request for an interview, and I met Lewis only briefly (I surmised he is a hands-on owner; he had a hammer in one hand and was talking about replacing a floor...) Kevin Long, a Kent native who has managed the city's Pufferbelly for about 17 years, graciously sat down with me to answer my questions about the popular restaurant.

Kent is comprised of about 20,000 permanent residents and about 22,000 college students. Fortunately, the Pufferbelly menu appeals to a broad demographic. "Townies" enjoy Pufferbelly year 'round, and from homecoming through springtime graduation ceremonies, it's popular with parents of college students who feel obliged to take their hungry offspring out for a nice meal.

"We're a fresh house," Long said, "meaning we don't buy anything pre-fab. We make all of our own sauces, soups, quiches-everything fresh, daily."

I've been delighted at everything I've eaten there. Of several salad entrees (around $6 each) my favorite is the Raspberry Chicken. I also love the Pasta Aglio, linguine with fresh artichoke hearts and red peppers loads of Italian appeal, and the Triad, a Mid-Eastern sampler of hummus, brown rice salad and falafel. My husband, a Prime Rib aficionado, says it's always delicious here.

Whatever you order, hang on to your menu long enough to read the story on it about W.C. Field's visit to the old station. It's as interesting as the building itself.

Built in 1875, the expansive red-brick building was Kent's original train station. Still-active tracks run within rattling distance of the restaurant's window seats. Kent's Historical Society owns the building; its museum and offices are upstairs. The restaurant serves as a gateway to the museum, with historic photos and railroad memorabilia on every wall. A surrey hangs from the ceiling near the bar; it's said Canton's own President McKinley rode in it.

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