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A Taste of WA Merlot

© Eric Cook

At a recent, public, blind tasting of WA State Merlots, all the intensity of flavor of this early-ripening grape was apparent, with balances that suggest drinking over the next 2-8 years.

Wines from 1996 and 1997 formed the basis of the tasting with one 1995 and one 1998. Styles of the wine ranged from the lighter, easy-drinking to the blockbuster, jammy, layers-of-flavor selection. Prices ranged from $13.99 to $55.69 with good price correlation to the intensity of flavor and ageability of the wine. Again, identity and price of all the wines was withheld until the group of 40 tasters had tasted all of the wines.

Columbia Crest "Estate Series" 1995 - For the price, this was the crowd-pleaser. Fairly obvious and rich style of Merlot that satisfies the novice as well as the more sophisticated palate.

Aromas of smoky black cherry and caramel-y vanillin lead to a medium to full-bodied palate of the same types of flavors. The balancing acidity is still going strong and this usually tannic vintage is showing well now. (15,000 cases from 14-15 year old vines, 21 months in French oak.)

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Columbia Crest "Estate Series" 1996 - The next year's release from the winery spent less time in oak to compensate for the more difficult growing season that began with a killer freeze in February. (Two weeks from January 30 to February 12, at minus 20ºF.)

The wine's aromas were less pronounced, perhaps due to age and the palate had a spicier note to the black cherry and 'wilder' flavors. The reduced crop should have concentrated the flavors to fewer grapes, yet the net effect here seems to be in increased levels of tannin and wood-y impressions that may soften with time. Given the impressive track record of the winery, I would say that is most likely. (7,500 cases produced from 17-20 year old vines, 17 months in mostly French oak.)

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Waterbrook 1996 - All the cabernet-lovers sat up and took notice here - and for good reason. The winery blended in 22% Cabernet Sauvignon from a selection of the state's warmest vineyards, perhaps as a reaction to the difficult season.

The aromas were fairly unyielding at first, though the bouquet developed well over an hour. The wine had delicious notes of black pepper to accompany the medium to full-bodied black cherry/vanillin impressions. The texture of the wine was good with a bit of a "dusty" finish. Notwithstanding, this one still could use some time in the cellar to soften and "open up" a bit. (21 months in ½ French, ½ American oak, 35% new)

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