One of the biggest myths of light gardening is that you need special full-spectrum bulbs. These are available, but they are very expensive, and I've never found that I need them. I use one warm white and one cool white bulb in each fixture. Plants use the red and blue ends of the spectrum and the rest is pretty much wasted anyway. There's a really good, easy to understand discussion of this subject here.
The shop lights come with chains to suspend it from the shelves above, so it is adjustable. Most plants do well with the lights 12 to 18 inches above the leaves, but in late winter, when I start seeds for outdoors, I lower them to 6 to 8 inches above the seedlings when the first true leaves develop. It keeps them short, strong and stocky.
The length of time the light is on is another issue. For maintenance 12 hours is fine, but to flower things, 16 is better. Some plants require short nights (long days) to set flower buds (fuchsia, calceolaria, begonias and most annuals) others are programmed to long nights (short days)(chrysanthemums, poinsettias, jade and kalanchoe). Some are called day-neutral because light is not the trigger for their flowering. Most of the day-neutrals begin to flower when they are big enough or the light intensity is strong enough (African violets, geraniums, impatiens and tomatoes).
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