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The Barefoot Trim

© Gwenyth Browning Jones Santagate

Think back in history to Alexander, Xenophon and the time of Socrates - horses carried men and warriors on their backs for centuries without shoes. They were required to go miles and miles through the worst terrain, often at high rates of speed. They were barefoot. They had to execute sliding stops, spins, roll backs, jumps and high school maneuvers - barefoot.

It has been evident that 95% of all lamenesses originate in the hoof that is no longer able to function normally due to shoeing and/or improper trimming. However, one cannot just pull the shoes off their horse(s) and expect them to gallop off merrily into the sunset. Just as when the human wears shoes all winter then discards them in the springtime and feels pain upon walking on hard surfaces, the same happens to the horse. The sole is weak, soft and ultra sensitive and the horse will experience pain when walking barefoot on hard surfaces. The sole must be given time to toughen up and the proper lifestyle must be in effect (turned out 24/7 with free access to shelter; allowed to soak hooves a minimum of 15 mins. daily; movement of 10 - 15 miles daily; proper feed and nutrition assured; varied terrain accessible to roam and graze, etc.) Additionally, proper trimming must be applied according to the individual condition of the hooves. Following are GENERAL guidelines which to follow for trimming with variations according to the conformation of each, individual horse.

1. Trim for a 30 degree hairline (where the hair meets the coronary band at the top of the hoof). This allows the coffin bone to be ground level.

2. Angles of hoof wall matching the short pastern and shoulder angles. Fronts should be approximately 45-50 degree angle with the rear hooves around 50-55 angle

3. Short toe - close to 3 ½ inches as seen in the wild hoof.

4. Short heel to allow the bulbs and frog contact with ground and to keep the coffin bone ground level. Walking with long heels is the same as a human walking in high heels all the time.

5. When viewed from the front, the coronary band should be horizontal and straight with no dips or bumps.

6. Adequately trimmed bars so as the bars do not equal the height of the wall but extend a small bit above the sole. The bars should never be longer than the walls.

7. The overall shape of the front hooves should be round, wide

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