Sabarimala


© Harsh Nevatia
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Sabarimala, in the southern part of India, is the final resting place of Lord Ayyappa. The shrine is located 914 m above sea level on the Pampa river valley amidst dense forests. Tourists and foreigners, as well as women between the ages of 10 and 50 (between puberty and menopause), are not officially allowed entry to the main temple.

Between mid-November to mid-January pilgrims flock to the shrine of Lord Ayyappa at Sabarimala. For a period of 41 days before the pilgrimage to Sabari Hills, one has to maintain the purity of the body and mental system. Attired in the modest black clothes and wearing a rosary necklace, men grow their hair and beard and go about barefoot. The food is restricted to cereals, vegetables and fruits alone.

Carrying a cloth bag tied into two portions consisting of a coconut filled with ghee and other articles of worship, the devotees set out to the Sabari Hills. When they reach Erumeli, the pilgrims have their first halt, where there is a famous temple constructed by Rajashekara, the Pandala King. Here the idol of the Lord is in the form of a hunter with the bow and arrows in hand. Next is the shrine of Vavar who was Ayyappa's best friend and faithful follower.

It is a hard climb to the top. After having covered a distance of 40 kilometres through hills, valleys and woods, the devotees reach the banks of holy river Pamba. A little distance ahead is Sabaripreetom, where saint Sabari observed severe penance and attained nirvana after meeting Lord Rama.

Finally the temple at Sabarimala is reached. There are eighteen holy steps to the sanctum sanctorum. These steps represent the five senses, eight basic melodies of Indian classical music, three basic character traits, knowledge and ignorance. The pilgrimage to Sabarimala is quintessentially the quest of the human soul for the union with the divine and supreme.

The connection between the Pandalam family and Sabarimala is as old as the Ayyappa myth. Whenever a mishap has occurred at Sabarimala, clear omens were witnessed in the palace. Thrice the temple caught fire and at the same time, the same day there were fire-related accidents in the palace. However, for the average pilgrim Pandalam is the place where Ayyappa grew up. The pond in which he bathed and the temple where he prayed are still on the palace premises. Another temple on the palace premises is dedicated to Lord Ayyappa, so that he can be worshipped everyday. Instead of an idol a piece of rock with considerable gold content is worshipped here. Another interesting aspect is that the king of Pandalam never visits Sabarimala. The belief is that Ayyappa would stand up from his posture to greet the king, who is like father to him.

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