In trying to be a traveler, not just a tourist, I keep my ears open for conversations about people and places. Sometimes, I listen so intently to voices at adjacent tables and on park benches that people turn their backs to me. Other times, they acknowledge me and I apologize for eavesdropping and explain that I'm interested in the places and people they're talking about.
While vacationing in Oaxaca, about 300 miles south of Mexico City, I heard the name, Rodolfo Morelos and the pueblo, Ocotlan de Morelos, mentioned on several occasions. Lured by stories of this artist who is devoting his money and talent to restoring colonial churches, I set out to learn more.
Ocotlan is about an hour by second-class bus from Oaxaca city. You can also get there by collectivo taxi. These taxi stands are in the vicinity of the Abastos market, south of the city's center. They leave for various pueblos when they get five or six passengers. The trips cost very little — under $2 U.S.
The Santa Domingo de Guzman church in Ocotlan is adjacent to the Palacio Municipal in the village's main square. Less than a year ago, the attached Exconvento (former convent), built in the 16th century, was in shambles. For years, it had been a prison, housing some of the area's toughest hombres. On top of the delicate paintings of antiquity, prisoners scratched messages and marked the days and months of their captivity.
In less than a year, using workers from nearby villages, artist Morelos has restored this wondrous stone building, turning the bedrooms, prayer rooms, and dining room into galleries. Some of the galleries feature works of contemporary artists. In others, 16th century paintings that originally hung in the convent are displayed.
You can meander through rooms of photos depicting the restoration process and sit in a cubicle where, centuries ago, monks meditated for hours, overlooking the distant Sierra Madre de Sur mountains. Under construction is a kitchen and restaurant. The courtyard will become an outdoor cafe — a place to sit and read or write or paint. There is no admission fee to the convent/galleries, but your donation will be put toward continued restoration of other crumbling colonial-era churches in nearby villages.
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