It is about 1 a.m. December 8, the day of the Immaculate Conception in Mexico. The fiesta, complete with parade and fireworks, will last until 5 a.m. I know this because my landlady warned me. Last year, her tenant moved out Dec. 9 because of the noisy, all-night party. "It's only on this night that it happens," she explained to me.
The fiesta, only yards from my bedroom window, is dedicated to the Virgen de Juguila (hoo-KEE-la). In a magazine article, Glen Pinchbeck of the Instituto Cultural in Oaxaca tells the story of Juguila.
Father Jordan, a mid-sixteenth-century priest, carried a small statue of the Virgin Mary with him as he traveled the state of Oaxaca, establishing, it is said, 160 missions. When he left, he gave the statue to his servant who brought it back to his hometown of Amialtepec.
Through the centuries, reports of miracles attributed to the statue prompted pilgrimages to the tiny town on Mexico's Pacific Coast. In 1633, the church burned to the ground. Miraculously, the statue survived, her "skin" blackened, but her garments not even singed.
Today, the statue is in a church in Santa Catalina Juguila, 100 kilometers from Puerto Escondido. Swarms of pilgrims this time of year trek along the rough and dusty road, some on foot and some by bus, truck, burro or auto. In my neighborhood, people pay daily homage to a replica of the Virgen de Juguila, and, on December 8, they stage the all-day, all-night, all-out fiesta.
The incident of the angry tenant and my own experiences with noise in Mexico makes me aware of how we pack our personal perceptions into our luggage when traveling. Noise in Mexico isn't generated by thoughtless neighbors, but is intrinsic to the country's culture.
Mexicans love bands, processions, fireworks and fiestas. The Mexican Division of Tourism claims there are 4,000 festivals each year nationwide. Check out the Official and Religious Holidays.
December's sky lights up with rocket's red glare nightly, continuing through January 6 Three Kings' Day when gifts are exchanged.
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