SUPPER IN SALZBURG

At the top end of the price range hotel restaurants include a wider range of European dishes. The Bristol Hotel's "Bei Bruno" highlights fish and mushrooms with a "Tyrol" and eclectic European menu - consider the great "goulash" -- with a hint of Northern Italian. Unfortunately, the "Bei Bruno" can close from time to time during the winter. Austrians do like to ski too!

Another top upscale choice is the quietly elegant "Mirabell Restaurant" in the Salzburg Sheraton Hotel just across from the park. "Café Winkler" near the upper end of the funicular on the "Mönchstein Cliff," one two looming above city, charges a bit more than other cafés, but the view is world class at dusk and on a decent day there's 20 minute stroll along the Sound of Music walk along the ridge to the "Hohensalzburg Fortress."

Since 1745 locals have "sausage up" at "Restaurant Ottoburg" with some super "schnitzels," good goulashes and one of the better "Nockerls." Vegetarians might enjoy "Bistro Bio Terra's" vegetarian food heavy on antipasti and mushrooms. "Ährlich," an organic restaurant which can do vegetarian food and which offers up oddments like pumpkin ice cream is another good choice.

However, grazing on street food is tough to overlook if the weather permits. Locals seem to come with food in hand. Sausages, sandwiches, "Roggenbrot" so hard it threatens teeth and a host of pastries enjoyed with a wary eye on the uneven cobblestones between glances at the wonderful buildings. If it's too cold to stroll head for a café with kaffee, five or six strudels besides apple, Sacher, "Prince Metternich" and other torten and rehrucken, a rich almond chocolate cake. One thing is certain, Salzburg will certainly challenge even the most hearty appetite.

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