BEST B&B’S: Domaine Madeleine; Port Angeles, Washington

Nothing beats the best of the B&Bs for serious travelers tired of hotels and such. The trick is to book the best and to avoid the rest. Domaine Madeleine, perched on a low cliff overlooking the Strait of San Juan de Fuca with the lights of Victoria in the distance defines the former and the best kind of romantic getaway. It's the first of what will be a small collection of "BEST B&B's." "Location, location, location" is critical. Domaine Madeleine is just fifteen minutes or so from Port Angeles and the ferry to Victoria and less than an hour from Port Townsend, one of the top four Victorian towns in the USA. We'll cover the best B&B in the three others, equally well endowed with classic B&Bs -- Cape May, New Jersey, Galveston, Texas and Mendocino, California -- in future columns.

The setting in a series of gardens - wilderness, classic British, Money - defines the sense of peace and quiet so many seek today. The Thai staff, responsible of the wonderful five course breakfasts, projects that Thai passion for fine living too. Don't expect breakfast here either. Five course "breakfasts" might include poached pears with kiwi and strawberrys, almond croissants, French baguettes with Cougar Gold white cheddar cheese from Washington State University, brie and Havarti. Then you move, or perhaps waddle, to spanikopita made from scratch with roasted eggplant, turkey/apple sausage and artichoke hearts before finishing, and you're definitely finishing with a crème brule. Stay more than a day and breakfast varies. Victor, the Thai chef who's got all the local fishing hotspots cold, guarantees, " Nobody will want lunch before 2 o'clock."

Five lodging options offer particular pleasures. We took the Ming room, running across the entire top floor of the rather substantial building, incredibly romantic with a wood-burning stove, private deck, huge bed, incredible views and a blue tile jetted pool big enough for a family. However, in summer, the Monet Room through its namesake garden could be the choice with prints and more. The Renoir Room off the entry hall opens onto the salon during the day and both close off from the rest of the house at night.

Even more private is the Cottage on the grounds with a separate solarium, views of the Olympic Mountains, two-person jet tub and an overall calm mood. The last option, the Rendezvous factors in a kitchenette, whirlpool tub and great views for those who want to be totally by themselves.

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