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Cozumel Considered Part 2 of 2

© Annette R. Bignami

Tourist traffic thins out as the shore road turns north, Punta Chiqueros Beach offers last chance swimming before the Transverse Highway back to the city. Check the Paradise Café for a beer and spicy conch salad or shrimp. Then it's decision time. Most of the other beaches to the north and Molar Point are suspect with surf, undertows and rips. Note that it's a good idea to return home before dark to avoid late charges on auto rentals, or hitting an iguana, or worse, a deer, horse or cow on rural roads. Colombia de Sentos that would have to grow to be a hamlet, at Playa Chiqueros also offers dirt road access back to Cedral and Buena Vista archeological sites for the off-pavement addict. Road conditions are most variable.

ISLA COZUMEL JUNGLA DE COZUMEL Those who chicken out on the sandy bayfront road can always take the dirt road cutoff back past San Gravasio Ruins to the Airport. If you do this buy a guidebook at the museum in town and save the guide fee at the ruins as there's not that much to see, but allow extra time to watch the couple that lives in traditional Mayan style and demonstrates traditional handicrafts like hammock making. Jungle tours are also popular with birders although it's the butterflies and flora that seem most impressive. Dirt roads and trails range from dubious to delightful and escorted tours seem the best approach.

ISLA COZUMEL PLAYA MORENA to PUNTA MOLAS The coast north of the Transverse Road offers an escape from crowds for 4WD drivers or the fit and frisky hiker with lots of mosquito dope and no fear of iguanas as big as Fido. Punta Xpalbarco's outlook north and south along the surf line shows why only skilled divers, surfers and body surfers hang here. There is a decent ruin about halfway up the coastal to Molar and the rather ugly lighthouse, and some rather spooky trails that run into the jungle or down the coast towards Laguna Xlapak. Several firms offer tours of this area. Some include swimming in inland pools and side trips to usually ramshackle ruins. A sample trip is probably recommended. ISLA COZUMEL COSTERA NORTE The road north from town runs to Santa Pilar Beach and some posh pleasure palaces with multiple pools, swim in bars and all the usual tropical titillations packed into a rather short shore section. This makes it handy for those that want to compare hotel bar margaritas. The road soon ends, and dive boats best reach the north coast lagoons beyond Laguna Crega. Playa San Juan used to have wonderful palm trees that are coming back after hurricane damage. It's the best beach north of town.