Given a tidy little seaside town with the Hansel and Gretel atmosphere, narrow streets and about 5,000 residents of Carmel-by-the-Sea. Bait the tourism hook with Clint Eastwood and you have a challenge if you expect to enjoy the wonderful woods, lovely gardens, sprawling cypress trees, wide beaches and the many moods of the Pacific. Admittedly the locals, at least many of them, make the tourist’s life a bit easier these days with improved parking and such. However, their attitude toward changes is reflected in the requirement that you need a vote of the City Council to remove a tree.
Unfortunately, most visitors stay in Monterey or drive in to jam the six square blocks of downtown for the day during summer. It’s better to visit in other seasons -- Monday through Thanksgiving Day are the least crowded days of the years and massive discounts at the upscale shops deserve a look then -- or check other areas. For example, try February when big storms pound the coast. Even then you can zip from shop to shop and avoid the rain. The basic approach to Carmel is simple --slip on sturdy shoes and walk! Park your vehicle where you stay in town at a nifty B&B or small hotel. Then get up at first light to run or walk on the deserted beach, head back, clean up, chow down and check out shops and homes before the drive ins arrive and, above all, don’t even think about the car unless you’re heading to out of town attractions like Point Lobos or a drive past the plutocrats on 17-Mile Drive.
Two meals help too. Breakfast very early, or enjoy your B&B’s included breakfast and graze around town. Try the Pasta or sandwiches at Paolina’s on San Carlos. Look around from eleven to two -- then enjoy an uncrowded lunch. As an alternative try the wonderful delis and pack lunch down to the beach. Explore side streets and the great gardens -- locals are often friendly if you compliment their horticulture! Note the lack of sidewalks and street lights and parking meters.
