MONTEREY WET Part One of Two

My hometown Monterey was a wonderful town in which to grow. Monterey has changed over the years, but it will always be special to me and remains a charming town worth a visit many times over. Monterey lost its way sometime between the closing of the canneries and the "flies in amber" paving of the historic section. "Old Monterey" – was the Monterey of Richard Dana, John Steinbeck and a host of forgotten fishermen. Today it the smell of caramel corn and the rumble of traffic replace the cannery stench locals called "the smell of money" and the cannery clanking. Some things are better. The Monterey Aquarium, even before it's 1996 expansion, may be the best in the world, and the Maritime Museum deserves a look.

However, it’s not accidental that these two attractions look to the bay that made Monterey. Straying no more than a block or three from water is still the best recipe for a Monterey Wet weekend. Start with a stay on the bay at our favorite Monterey Bay Inn—leave the sliding doors open and you can watch the bay and hills change color as sun sets and hear the gulls cry and seals soar. Hang over the rail here, or the rail at Fisherman’s Wharf and you’ll see sea otters too. If you arrive in the afternoon enjoy a walk past Cannery Row and the Monterey Aquarium to the shore delights of Pacific Grove to the Historic Point Piños Lighthouse, Early in the morning hike by the bay in the other direction to the Historic District—sissies can drive and park by the wharf. The downtown Path of History offers crowds and confusion weekends and midday. But rise at dawn on a foggy summer or wet winter day. Bundle up and follow the Path through the fog. It’s not hard to imagine ghosts of Richard Dana—do read Two Years Before the Mast for a look at old California.

You can always come back to check our interiors later, yes? Then head for what may locals call “the tourist pier.” If you’re very, very early you might share coffee with anglers heading out of bottom fish, salmon or albacore. These half-day and day trips offer quick access to the action and are highly recommended when the Pacific lives up to it’s name. Otherwise, can catch small fish right off the pier or you might grab some fish scraps and stuff out the pampered seals and sea lions that honk below the dock—they too profit from tourists. So do the fishmongers and wharf restaurants that offer delicious squid chowder—by the cup or in a cannon ball loaf of French bread along with fried squid, squid rings and squid or crab salad and cocktails.

Go To Page: 1 2

Articles in this Topic    Discussions in this Topic