CHAMONIX SKIING PART FIVE: FOOD & LODGINGS

It is appropriate that menus at 3843 come in French, English and Italian as a reflection of the three nationalities so intertwined in the history of Mt. Blanc. It is astonishing that the food at this snug restaurant built on, and in, the very top of Aiguille du Midi is so good you need not allow for the obvious supply difficulties and the problems of high altitude cooking. Frankly, given the view, the restaurant would justify a visit even if the food did not.

Such is happily not the case. Last visit, my charming guide Chloe’ Ancrenaz and I enjoyed a wonderful Menu “Mont Blanc.” A Cocktail 3842 redolent of berries and mystery alcohol allowed time to stare out the window at the most spectacular view in the Alps. Our Savoyad salads seemed entrée-size with a layer of warm sliced potatoes over tomatoes and a green salad topped off with melted raclette, a superior local cheese that seems an distinct improvement over usual fondue cheeses. Croutons and small bits of the wonderful Savoy smoked ham topped a dish so good I would have considered seconds save for the second course, perfect slices of carefully roasted duck graced with a confit of chestnuts and potatoes a’ la salardaise.

A plate of the wonderful local cheeses followed. Savoy cheeses at altitude deserve very close attention for contented cows and goats graze on wildflowers and high mountain meadows to produce a variety of special cheeses little known outside the high country. Sniff what looks like a Brie round and you smell bluebells. After such cheese only expresso seemed suitable. However, Chole’ managed a lovely desert made with alpine berries lathered with rich cream.

Restaurant Le Hameau Albert 1 deserves a special mention as it offers a wonderful chance to enjoy the restaurant menu in your room without surcharge. I asked about this and was told it is a frugal French way to make more room in the restaurant for outsiders. In any case, a salad of herbs and lettuce from the hotel garden lead to a wonderful roasted Bresse pigeon which came with the sliced breast presented on a corn pancake with a balsamic vinegar sauce and roquette leaves. Another dish I managed to sample I the kitchen was a very different, but totally delicious combination of veal sweetbreads with lobster and mashed potatoes.

Breakfast at the hotel seems convenient even though we often head for croissants at a café or check out the wonderful boullangerie breads on the corner by the tourism center. Grazing on the special sausages, hams, breads and cheeses gets us to dinner that comes rather late. Albert 1er Hotel tides us over with a nice tea on the rare days we get back before dark. They pack a mean picnic lunch too.

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