Off-piste defines French Alpine skiing. You need a guide – ski instructors can’t legally work off-piste – with all the skills of self-rescue American skiers discuss, but rarely master. Guides come in two flavors. Guides from La Maison de la Montagne next to the church on the plaza near the excellent tourism office (phone 33-50-53-00-88) runs mostly to local residents. The Association des Guides Independents (phone 33-50-53-27-05) sports more guides from areas outside Chamonix and, I’m told, better language skills..
All guides must go through the six-year Ecole Nationale du Ski Alpine and most quides also own extremely sophisticated mountaineering skills. Many climb in the Himalayas, organize trips to other continents, etc. The average $300 a day a guide charges is your best investment all year if you climb, ski or even hike. They’ve the skills and the local knowledge to take full advantage of the incredible local terrain and, in the summer, hide you from the incredible local vehicle and foot traffic. A private ski instructor hired by the half day – full-day if your fitness permits – can insure that you get to be right run at the right time, too.. En piste you can, of course, ski on your own. If you must ski on your own take the time to visit the exceptional tourism center on the plaza across from the Alpine Museum and Guides Association. You can get ski passes for any or all of the local slopes, current weather reports and help planning trips.
Beginners can start at Les Bossons just ten minutes from Chamonix where the compulsive add nocturnal skiing in a pair of snow stadia while the more sedentary might try a glass of glühwein or fork up fondue. Tip: don’t try the “first person to drop a piece of bread into the cheese pays” game with the locals. “Fondue forking” must be a local school subject.
Children get to start skiing right in the city center at Le Savoy where the small fry from four to ten start. Les Planards, moves them into family skiing in easy terrain. However my personal choice for those new to skiing is a set of lessons at Col de Balme with sunshine and easy runs as long as the intermediate trip down to Vallorcine. A mix of forest trails and open slopes suits couples or families with mixed ability levels. Snowboarders do well in the natural half pipes near the Autanes Chair.
