Megève Part 1 of 3

Nearly one hundred years ago the Baroness de Rothschild set out to create a French alpine resort in the mold of St. Moritz. With the entire Alps from which to select, she picked Megève in its beautiful open bowl where the Le Glapet and Le Nant des Cordes rivers jointed. Construction did not erase the character of an authentic alpine village. By 1924, King Albert and Queen Elizabeth stayed here. A bit later Susan Hayworth and the Aga Khan skied and rode horse sleighs here. Megève has changed relatively little over the years due to a combination of good sense and good zoning. So today Megève has more four star hotels than Chamonix and other functions to match. What it does not have is mobs for, while 85% of the visitors are French and 10% Italian the rest of the world simply hasn’t discovered the year-round joys of this charming village in its sunny bowl.

Today, Megève reflects the best results of the Baroness’s good taste, unlimited budget and close attention to traditional lifestyles. The wonderful ball dome of the church, built on the site of a Benedictine monument dating back to 1085. The church offers 14th century choir stalls 17th century nave, 18th century tower, and some 20th century murals worth seeing. A series of chapels that survives the French Revolution testifies to both the area’s faith and its slow rate of change.

So do more than 75 working farms with Abondance cows that still produce milk for the superior local cheeses such as Tommed de Savoie. Cows have enough space to munch wildflowers, for over 25 percent of the area is forest and 20 percent mountain pastures. At least 90 miles of trails take locals and visitors down through alpine strawberries, bilberries and raspberries -- the ski lifts run in summer so it’s downhill all the way with special rates for mountain bikers and parasailers.

Ski lifts also waft you to mountain biking and hiking as well as rock, snow and mountain climbing: Megève’s Maison de la Montagne’s Bureau des Guides et accompagnateurs can point you to the best spots. Their escorted backpacking, mountain biking, and hiking trips, and an assortment of climbing and hiking schools offer a complete alpine experience. While maps and guide books offer solo options, it’s a joy to be picked up by a guide who selects appropriate hiking routes, totes lunch and handles the day’s problems.

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