Day one covered architecture, art and history. Now it's time to look at Thais rather than tourists. Time to get out and explore on the Chao Phraya, the river that is to Bangkok what the Thames is to London. Time to enjoy a fresh juice break at a stand few tourists see. Time to watch, or help, a Thai family tend their vegetable gardens or compare fishing techniques with the kids along the klongs. Bring a bird or plant guide if so inclined and consider binoculars and a camera and lots of film. Expect to get moderately damp either from river spray or from the scramble in and out of long-tail boats. We suggest you rent your own boat and guide for the day. Ferries are larger and more stable but don't always squeeze into the best klongs off main waterways. Sujit Chin suggests, "Tote an inflatable pillow as boat seats are hard after 15 minutes."
If you stay nearby and start your day early enough, visit Wat Benchamabophit "the Marble Temple" on Sir Ayutthaya Road near Dursit Park and Zoo where monks chant at dawn. (Admission 10 baht, open until 5 p.m.)
The "Wat Ben" courtyard holds over 60 bronze Buddha figures, and the main building - "look up, look up!" can put a crick in any neck with its unusual roofs and wonderful carvings. Ask about any "Patimoke," the colorful monthly meeting of all monks, here or at other Wats. Such meetings are quite colorful and sometimes open to the public. Then catch a quick bus or cab back down Rajadamnoen Nok Road past the kick boxing stadium - it's open on alternate nights with Lumpini Stadium way out Rama IV Road for seven day a week violence -to the river.
Th3 Dursit District, Rama V's try at a European city, offers European-style buildings of varied historical and architectural merit, and, if you have time, the 81-room, golden teak Vimarn Mek Palace seems worth a visit even. Like the Dursit Zoo (10 baht admission and fine inexpensive noodles and other food) and "silk king" Jim Thompson's house (100 baht admission), it did not make our "three day" cut.
Too much nightlife or too many Wats for the early start? Catch a Chao Phraya Express Ferry after 6 a.m. and rubberneck on the restful trip upstream to the coconut groves in Ko Kret. Watch for interesting architecture and activities near ferry piers on your upstream trip; visit the best on the way back. Note that most of the stops are on the Bangkok side so sit on the right side of the boat going up and back so you're near shore at piers.
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