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20th Century Lace

© Lori Howe

During the turn of the century the lacemaking as an industry continued to decline but lacemaking as a craft and art-form was taking shape. There were fewer women who were making a living making lace at this time but it was still a respected pastime for "ladies". Young women were still able to go abroad to study the needle arts and schools still existed in England, Belgium, France and Italy.

The demands for handmade lace waxed and waned for centuries but at the end of the 19th century, handmade lace occupation almost died. There were fewer women who were making a living making lace at this time but it was still a respected pastime for "ladies". Young women still went abroad to study the needle arts as long as the schools still existed in England, Belgium, France and Italy. But eventually many of the schools had closed and the expert lacemakers were unable to find the young students that once lined up to learn this woman's profession. Thankfully several patrons rescued this nearly lost art and re-established some of the lace schools just in time. The last lacemaker of the valuable Venetian lace was 70 years old and wasn't teaching anymore. Queen Marguerita established a lace school on the island of Burano, Italy. She even unraveled her own laces in order to discover their secrets. Other women watched the last lacemaker as she worked to try to ascertain her skills and techniques. Slowly the Venetian laces were again being made in Italy. Designers were also working on new patterns and the lace designs continued to increase.

Private schools were also coming back and after World War 1 it was discovered the old laces need updating for the 20th century. These schools developed newer styles and uses for modern lace. Bobbin lace was also returning and sometimes used in combination with needlelace and net as in Cantu where the Italian government supported the promotion of handicrafts.

Another event at this time was also helping to promote quality handmade lace. Annual national and international exhibitions were held and the finest laces were seen and awarded. These drew travelers from around the world and increased the "collecting" of wonderful lace by the modern rich.

Royalty was also supporting the return of lace in other countries. Queen Elizabeth of Belgium even held a lace ball in 1918 to promote lacemaking in her country and provide work for the war torn country. Convent schools opened up and taught young girls to make lace and thus support their families.

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