During these excessive times in the 17th and 18th century, many men spent so much money - some even losing their estates while trying to buy more and more beautiful lace - it became necessary to establish laws to protect the economy of France. Edicts were passed to prevent lace from being imported from Italy and several times they even tried to ban its wearing. But these attempts were largely ignored and old estate records often reveal that lace was among the most valuable items listed. The courts of Europe could be compared to the fashion runways of today. When a new type of lace appeared it was soon followed with new ways to display it. Different laces lent themselves to different styles, like the high starched Medicis collar or elaborate "ruff" as opposed to the soft flowing "fall" collar. But even the much favored fall collar gave way when the long flowing curls of elaborate wigs covered the costly lace on the back and shoulder. Thus the cravat was introduced where most of the visible lace was in the front.
Lacemakers were brought to France from Italy and Flanders to teach the French lacemakers how to make the favored laces at the time. This influx of lacemakers and the constant changing styles favored by the court lead to many different types of lace. The two main groups were needlelace and bobbin lace but within those general techniques, there were many styles and variations. Many of these were named after the town or region where they were made or developed. We know them by these names even today.
But France was by no means the only place in the world that lace was maturing. The courts in every Western European country were also brimming with lord and ladies showing off their finery. And due to the edict of Nantes, many French lacemakers left France for religious freedom. The countries, to which these skilled workers fled, gained their expertise and their own lacemaking developed and matured.
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