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Book Review: Designing Knitwear by Deborah Newton

© Suzanne Griffith

I've been a fan of Deborah Newton's work since I knitted an Aran vest she designed for Handmade magazine in the late 80s, and I've been wanting to buy her book on knit design for nearly ten years. But I just couldn't justify the price to myself. I waited and waited until the other day when I was wandering around a local bookstore and said, "Oh, what the heck," and bought it. This should be a lesson to me: I spent the same amount for the paperback that I would have spent on the hardbound edition a few years ago.

There is one consolation: it's worth every penny! This is an inspirational book. I want to go out and buy a dress form and design all my own clothes, not just sweaters!

Deborah uses a methodical approach to knit designing. She elaborates and illustrates each step. They include inspiration (from nature, photos, even a circuit board), yarn choice, fit and sizing, knit and purl textures, color and graphics, classics (check out the tuxedo sweater!), themes and charting (motifs, slip stitches, twists, Arans, and lace), and, finally, details and finishing (draping, collars).

The chapter on fit and sizing is packed with useful information. Along with sections on sleeve types, necklines, etc., Deborah explains ease and the difference between close-fitting, classic, and oversized garment types. This is something to read now, since fashions have changed -- yet again -- and those oversized sweater patterns are starting to look a bit stale. If you work with the examples and explanations in this book, you'll be able to cut an oversized pattern down to a classic or close-fitting one. This is an especially good chapter for readers with a sewing background.

Deborah emphasizes swatching for successful knitting throughout the book, and you will be delighted with all the photos of swatches. "If a yarn intrigued me," she says, "I would knit at least one swatch, or sample, with it before allowing myself to imagine what I might do with it. . . . I would produce a number of swatches, and only after creating a fabric that pleased me would I start the project."

There are quite a few complete patterns in this book for those of you who'd like to dip your feet into knit design one toe at a time. Notice the three-part shawl on pages 34-35, made of three squares, and the skirt suit with a slightly fitted waist (a classic shape) on page 239.

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