The end of the road in Buddhist Japan


© Lance Lindley

"This area is the right ear, and below this small nub you can see the right ear hole," the gloved attendant said reverently as he respectfully placed the piece of skull on top of the lesser bones with a long pair of steel chopsticks.

He went on with his explanation, giving us a tour of my grandmother-in-law's diminutive skull, but I had since tuned him out. I was focused inward, trying to decide how I felt about all this. The answer I came up with was... numb.*

I had answered the phone at my office a few days before Christmas and was pleasantly surprised to hear my wife's voice on the other end. It is very un-Japanese for a wife to call her husband at work -- or vice-versa, for that matter -- so this made only the third or fourth time in five years that I had received such a call. My pleasure was short-lived, though, when she burst into sobs.

"O-ba-chan is dead," she said, using the standard Japanese term meaning "My Dear Grandma." Instinctively, I shouted, "No!" but she assured me it was true. We had just had lunch with o-ba-chan, alive and healthy as a horse at 82 years old, just a few days before at a Buddhist ceremony for our unborn child. That we would not be seeing her near-toothless smile or hearing her cheerful, quavering voice again was inconceivable to me.

Not that I had understood her much, mind you; or she, me. She was a bit hard of hearing, which made it difficult for her to understand my accented and clumsy-in-unfamiliar-topics Japanese. And her 82-year-old vocal chords and somewhat traditional language made it difficult for me to understand her. But we knew we liked each other, and I took comfort in that fact as I felt the sense of loss settle in on me. When walking, I would often take her arm; and during dinner, when the others were ignoring us because we were both a little troublesome to include directly in the conversation, I would give her a wink or a smile and her face would open up into a broad grin. The photo the family chose for her funeral and subsequent shrine was even one in which I was putting my head on her shoulder (though I was, of course, cut out of the final print for the funeral). “It’s the only one we could find where she was smiling,” my wife explained.

       

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