Some travel books try to be all things to all people, but end up providing shallow, lackluster content. Other books provide detailed, even regimented travel instructions: "take three steps forward, turn left, then gaze at the glorious frescoes of Fra Bartolomeo . . ." but these books always make me feel guilty when I improvise on the instructions and skip some historical marvel or other. Still others drip with such smarmy self-satisfaction ("Our summer villa in la Toscana is only 800 years old, but at least the bellissimo Giotto fresco in the goat-shed isn't too badly damaged") that I want to throw them at the wall. I thought it might be impossible for a single book to offer just the right combination of basic information, historical details, and "atmosphere," in a tone that wasn't condescending, pedantic, or just plain irritating; recently, however, something came along to change my mind.
Barrie Kerper's new book, "Central Italy: The Collected Traveler" (Three Rivers Press, 2000) offers a wonderful mixture of practical recommendations and creative, richly textured anthology. If you want basic what/where/how much listings, just about any guide will probably do, but if, like me, you love planning and researching your trips almost as much as taking them, this is definitely the place to start. Kerper, an admitted "obsessive clipper," writes "I feel that learning about a place is part of the excitement of travel, and I wouldn't dream of venturing anywhere without first poring over a mountain of maps, books, and periodicals." Her obsession is our good fortune, since her carefully archived collection of articles makes up the bulk of this fascinating volume.
Kerper begins with 60 pages of amusing, often idiosyncratic, and very useful advice. In this A-Z "Informazioni Pratiche," she explains how to order a sandwich at an alimentare (preferably next door to a bakery, so the bread is nice and fresh), what kind of shoes to bring (smart walking shoes will work best for those who want to blend in with the local crowds), and how to haggle effectively in a market (carry cash in small denominations, use "bait and switch" tactics to close the deal, and rely on emotional appeals when all else fails). Overall, the section contains a broad range of excellent information for those in the early stages of planning a trip to Italy, though the author makes it clear that this material is intended to supplement other travel books (many of which she reviews under "G" for "Guidebooks"), rather than replace them.
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