Italy Trip Report, Part Two – Florence FavoritesI got back from Italy nearly two months ago, but I'm still missing it. It's great that I can buy prosciutto at my local supermarket, and Prosecco at the nearest liquor store, but somehow these things taste so much better at an outdoor trattoria table in Italy than they do in my dining room here in B.C. Anyway, I've been treating my "reverse homesickness" by ordering enlargements and reprints of my favorite travel photos, sorting out the best pictures for the family scrapbook, and kitchen-testing my way through two of Nick Stellino's wonderful cookbooks. I've also put together my personal "top five" list for Florence, so here it is. 1. Hotel Il Bargellino - http://www.ilbargellino.com Before this trip, my experience with one-star Italian hotels had been less than stellar. This time, though, we were very fortunate to be able to stay in a place that is probably one of the best budget deals in Florence. The Hotel Il Bargellino is everything its web site suggests - friendly, central, reasonable, clean, safe, and comfortable. Our large double room opened onto a beautiful communal terrace, complete with statuary, flowers, and a lemon tree covered with fruit so perfect that I wondered at first if it was real (it is!). We also had a small fridge in the room, which made it possible for us to shop at the nearby market and pack picnics, rather than eating every meal in a restaurant. The owners, Pino and Carmel (he's Italian, she's originally from Boston), did their best to make us feel right at home, and were always willing to provide helpful suggestions and advice about what to see, how to get there, and when to go. We met lots of tourists who sounded envious when we told them about the huge pine armoire in our room, the double doors opening onto the peaceful terrace outside, and the location just two blocks away from the Central Market. Even one group of tourists staying at the luxurious five-star Excelsior spoke as if they might want to trade places with us! 2. Focaccine We visited this focaccia/pizza joint three or four times in the five days we spent in Florence - the food is cheap and good, beer and wine is available, and the location is great - right by the central market, and just a couple of blocks from our favorite budget hotel. The pizza by the slice is decent, and there are always a couple of varieties to choose from, but the best choice here is the fresh focaccia bread, split and filled with your choice of toppings, toasted, then wrapped in a piece of plain white paper. Simple, straightforward, and very satisfying! Focaccine is famous for its strawberry pizza, but unfortunately we never managed to get there early enough to get any. Get the food to go, or eat at one of the picnic-style tables that line the tiny space.
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