Selecting Plants: Will That Plant Grow Here? The Reality of Zone Maps.


© Georgene Bramlage

No matter how hard we try, most landscape designers and home gardeners cannot stop thinking about the plants that might be incorporated into our projects. Over the years, to keep my dreaming in check and avoid costly mistakes, I've worked out a list of eight general criteria for selecting plants. The first four deal with the physical environment, while the last four are concerned with design essentials. Here, I have listed them in what I believe to be their relative rank of importance:

  • Climatic adaptability or hardiness
  • Soil requirements
  • Insect and disease susceptibility
  • Sun and shade requirements
  • Size and form
  • Growth and development rate
  • Texture
  • Color and all season interest

The first question anyone making a garden and choosing plants must answer is: "Will that plant grow here?"

The concern is whether my climate will support growth of this plant. Let's begin with the broad concept of macro, or big, climates and then in a future article we can identify conditions that lead to micro, or small, climates.

Scientists have collected temperature data and incorporated them into maps known as Plant Hardiness Zone Maps and Climate Zone Maps. These identify various climatic limits, including temperature, that control plant growth and help garden designers solve different plant selection problems.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map of 1990 is probably the simplest plant hardiness zone map, making it a quick but valuable reference and probably the one most frequently used. Its zones and temperatures, from zone 6 through zone 10, have also been used to formulate various Plant Zone Maps for Europe.

The USDA map is based on the concept that plants die in winter when temperatures are too cold for them and is developed from ranges of average minimum temperatures. These range from below -50°F to 40°F and above, and are divided into eleven different zones, each of which shows an area of winter hardiness for native plants as well as for those used in agriculture and horticulture. Zone 11 represents areas that are essentially frost free. Zones 2 through 10 are further divided into subzones: "a" with the lower end of the range and "b" with the higher end.

Most plants sold today are given ratings showing in which zone they will probably grow best. The map, however, does not take into account the differences between air and soil temperatures, or between day and night temperatures, or differences in duration and amounts of rainfall, in humidity, or in daylight, or in effects of slight changes in natural topography or stress caused by artificial environments. Consequently, these USDA ratings are of general use but are not guarantees.

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Here's the follow-up discussion on this article: View all related messages

5.   Jan 21, 2005 11:31 AM
I really liked this article. My own experience with nursery "professionals" started when we bought our first house in New Jersey (zone6) and the lady sold us "citronella ferns" (to this day I still do ...

-- posted by kdjoergensen


4.   Apr 5, 2002 9:07 AM
In response to message posted by biogardener:
What you've found is unfortunate, but true in many places...your local ...

-- posted by Cercis


3.   Apr 1, 2002 8:27 AM
I have found nursery staff to be totally useless in advising customers, except for the owners of one nursery whom I know personally. The rest of them only know two words, perennial and annual, but th ...

-- posted by biogardener


2.   Feb 21, 2002 11:29 AM
In response to message posted by bici:
Hi Barbara! Sorry it took so long for me to get back to this question / idea. ...

-- posted by Cercis


1.   Jan 29, 2002 6:12 PM
I have not had much difficulty understanding the basic USDA map, although my locale in the center of upstate NY seems to be an anomaly within the rest of the state. But knowing there are other systems ...

-- posted by bici





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