La Dolce Vita: East of Via Del Corso


© Rowena Carr-Allinson

At the Northern end of town, start your stroll at the impressive Piazza di Popolo. A neoclassical work by Giuseppe Valadier,it is a grand ostentatious piazza complete with Egyptian obelisk, fountains and classical oversized statues and sculptures as well as a 16th Century gate marking the entry to Rome. The piazza can hold several thousand people and is often a base for free concerts.

The three streets that lead into town from here are known as the Tridente: Via del Babuino, Via del Corso or Via Ripetta.

To walk down to the Piazza di Spagna opt for the amusingly named Via del Babuino, past some of Rome's more glamorous hotels and upmarket shops. On this street you'll find the neo-Gothic Anglican Church of All Saints nestling in amongst five star hotels and Baroque and Rocco buildings. The street takes its name from a small Roman fountain of Silenus by Giacomo della Porta, so ugly that the Romans named it the Baboon.

Take a left and you'll find a hidden gem: the via Margutta. A tiny cobbled street with overhanging vines and greenery, it was once upon a time the center of the Dolce Vita, where celebrated artists, journalists, paparazzi and actors lived. Today it is home to exclusive Antique stores, boutique hotels and Art galleries that claim to have discovered the likes of Mastroianni, Greco and Maccari. It still has its own life and eccentricities, one shop at number 53b La Bottega del Marmoraro which has been a marble shop for over a hundred years has established a tradition whereby friends come at 1pm to lunch. Seating only allows 5 guests but this has become one of the most desired meal tickets in town. Enrico, the owner and craftsman turns restaurateur for a few hours. Visitors who can't get in sit outside on the steps or on car bonnets sampling his grilled scamorza cheese or lamb with the wine they bring along themselves. So quaint!

Back on via del Babuino, browse in Prada and Valentino before you hit the Piazza de Spagna and the legendary Spanish Steps. For a caffeine hit head over to the stylish cafe Greco on via Condotti where Byron, Goethe, Listzt and Wagner stopped off too, or, if it's really too crowded, head to La Caffetteria on via Margutta.

On Piazza di Spagna, visit the memorial houses for Keats and Shelley or just admire the Baracaccia fountain, one of the many impressive Bernini fountains in Rome. Climb up the Spanish Steps, unfortunately overrun by tourists, to the terrace and catch one of Rome's nicest views. It may be worth rising early to avoid the throngs but then again, they are part of the scenery now.

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