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On arrival in the Balearic island don't get discouraged by the miles you'll have to walk from the plane to the Salida. If I didn't know better I'd say the local builders were related to the person who commissioned the airport. Honestly. The Palma airport is luxurious and incredibly spacious, well designed and very clean. Something of a pleasant surprise. And it's idiot friendly, without speaking a word of Spanish we found our way to the car rental place in seconds. What's Spanish for Hertz?
As soon as you leave and take to the road, there is a "developing country" feel in the air. Modern cities and cutting edge design but small details give away the laid back latin inheritance ... The "we'll finish that tomorrow" aura is emphasized by the number of homes left to stand bare in their stark concrete shells. Scooters and motorbikes rule. Latin ladies in tight red trousers ride pillion while smiling at other drivers. Flirting on a bike takes some skill... I breathe a sigh of contentment. I am definitely on holiday! We cruise through the towns en route for our hotel which is situated mid-island. On the way we drive through desolate landscapes and desert-like backdrops complete with gangling cacti. Locals sit out on their doorsteps watching the world go by and waiting for the trade in dried chillies to pick up. These scenes of quiet village life collide with the massive Carrefour supermarkets and Ikea stores along the way. A word of warning! If you are driving, watch out for the police who ambush you at the roundabouts on the edge of town. Although, you run little risk of breaking the law when you're stuck behind a mule and cart! Avoid Calle de Mallorca at all costs. This concrete jungle with signposts in German and English is as far flung from a genuine Spanish experience as staying home. The small coastal resort boasts a disco-pub called Rock Cola and other such delights. As I discover many other places on this island cater only for those who want to stay in Liverpool or Hamburg with the sun as an extra. To my dismay it's a struggle to find the cosy Spanish atmosphere I'm looking for anywhere along the island's Eastern coastline. Any hotel or resort within walking distance from the warm turquoise sea has been hijacked and made into a grotesque, crass and charmless venue for those who lack imagination and are possibly hard of hearing. |
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