Martha's Vineyard in 24 hours

The romantic Martha's Vineyard invokes glorious sunsets, beach walks and glamorous socialites sipping Pimm's and nibbling lobster hors d'oeuvres on the wooden porches of their sea view holiday retreats. After all, this area is famed for its celebrity converts including Tom Hanks, Bill Clinton and the Kennedy clan. But is it really all that?

Having read all about it on websites, in guide books and having heard so much about this famous island, I was ready to be charmed and eager to get started.

Unfortunately having come all this way, time only allowed us 24 hours on the island. Hey, how big can it be?

Arriving at Wood's Hole at dusk, we abandoned the car and hopped aboard the bus which was to take us to the ferry. Our fellow travellers appeared to be mainly island locals having stocked up at clothing and grocery stores on the mainland. The overwhelming smell of damp and something else I couldn't quite put my finger on remained throughout the 10 minute bumpy drive. Although my backside, the main victim of the hard benches, was complaining I failed to voice my concerns - our driver was scary.

Martha's Vineyard was a disappointment. Perhaps I'd been expecting too much of this glamorous place? Perhaps I should have done better with my expectations management? Maybe I should have scheduled the visit for July not November. And maybe attempting to squeeze it into a day was a little misguided.

Off season the island, although beautiful is not as visitor friendly as we were led to believe. Guidebooks claim that, whatever the season it's best to leave your car on the mainland. Admittedly when the island is clogged with visitors I can see a point. However in November, the chill in the air and hourly buses mean it's best to take the car!

The 45minute crossing from Woods Hole set us back 34$ each way without a car. However, the parking fee is 8$ a day so once you account for taxis everywhere, and the odd bus if you are lucky, it's well worth bringing your own transport - if you plan on visiting for a longer stay.

Many B+Bs are closed off season so we elected to stay at the middle of the range Island Inn Hotel. A mistake.

We were dropped off in total darkness after a surreal ride on the red-lit, rock'n'roll playing bus from the ferry port. Finding our way to the Reception area, feeling exhausted and slightly lost - the island isn't big on lighting at night - we found our key nailed to the reception door in an envelope. Minus 1 for 'Friendly welcome'.

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