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Greyhounds vs Fleas, Part 2

© Judy A Tomlinson

As we know, greyhounds are extremely sensitive to many pesticides. Their bodies metabolize these substances different from other dogs. When treating greyhounds for fleas extreme care must be taken - there is simply no margin for error. The chemical compounds found in various flea shampoos, dips, and sprays can be equally deadly. A good rule of thumb is if the product is safe for puppies and kittens, it is safe for greyhounds.

In order to intelligently launch a campaign against fleas, it is important to understand more about their life cycle. There are four stages: the egg, larva, pupa, and adult. To rid our homes and pets of fleas, this cycle must be broken. If you treat your flea problem only one time, you have wasted your time and money. You may have killed the adult fleas the first time, but the babies left by them will soon be adults, and your problem starts all over! Think about this - a pair of fleas can produce 20,000 fleas in three months!! Yikes! You can see why it is so important to repeat your flea treatment per the directions on whatever product you are using. To read more on fleas and ticks visit Cindy T.Moore'sFAQ/fleas & ticks.

There are even different species of fleas. Two of the most well known are "cat fleas" and "dog fleas." There is really not much difference between the two. They are different species, but they look very much alike. Really, the only way to tell them apart is by using a microscope. In the United States 95 percent of our fleas are cat fleas. Dog fleas live mostly in Europe. The Petview site has more flea information.

Most insecticides can be grouped into one of three families:

• Organophosphates - an example is Dursban
• Carbamates - example is Sevin

  These first two can NEVER be used on Greyhounds.

• The third and least toxic is pyrethrin. Pyrethrin is a natural substance derived from the chrysanthemum flower.

Pyrethroids (permethrin, allethrin, and resmethrin) are man-made equivalents. These are strong enough to kill most fleas but have a very low toxicity level for animals.

Others to avoid are the chemicals cythiolate, propoxur and fenthion. (Brand names are Rabon, Baygon, ProSpot, Ex-Spot, etc.) These are over-the-counter products you can buy at any pet store. They are applied monthly to the spine of the dog. These are too strong for greyhounds.

Do you want to know about a very non-toxic and low-tech item that you can use to remove those troublesome fleas? This item also gives you an excuse (as through you need one!) to spend quality time with your grey. It is a FLEA COMB! In her book, Adopting the Racing Greyhound, Cynthia Branigan explains how to use the incredible flea comb. She suggests getting two bowls of water - one warm and soapy and the other warm and clear. Position your dog next to these bowls. Comb through the dog (or cat) once. You will see the fleas and flea dirt, if there is any. Immediately dip the comb in the soapy water, and then rinse the comb in the clear water. You can continue doing this as long as you find fleas. The greyhounds in my house absolutely love this!

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