NEPAL - Adventure travel at the top of the world

There are a number of reasons why we picked this tiny country squeezed between India and China on the southern slopes of the Himalayas: it was the aura of mysticism and spirituality said to make Nepal unique; the mountains, with Mt. Everest at the crest, also beckoned. It was an unusual experiences in out-of-the-way places that many tourists don't experience. It was also a physical trip--several days of trekking, additional days of rafting--something to challenge the bodies as well as the minds.

The trip itself was everything it promised to be and more. Halfway through, I said, "This is definitely not castles and cathedrals but it's so much more." I made a future commitment to "adventure travel."

Our port of entry was Kathmandu. Choked with pollution, many residents wear masks against the fouled air. Its few traffic lights are non-functioning, the streets are narrow, potholed, and garbage strewn. Traffic crawls among the fumes and constant blare of horns, stalled by assorted vehicles and holy cows (Hindu is Nepal's primary religion). The streets are lined with shops, side by side, most sell the same things: soft drinks, cigarettes, brown eggs, minimal food items. Fewer shops contain clothing items--Western style blazoned with motifs like Nike and Izod and all the American sports teams; limited plastic and aluminum household items; unattractive furniture; occasional small black and white TVs. Vendors set up carts or bicycles, spread their wares on the ground: tangerines, apples, tropical fruits, mounds of tiny bananas, greens, cauliflower. Thankfully, there are no McDonalds, but eateries advertise "fastfood" and the word "WELL COME" is everywhere.

Nepal was a feudal kingdom for many centuries, cut off from the modern world until the 1950's. The vast majority of its people struggle to eke out a living amid some of the world's harshest terrain. In the mountain areas the farmers turn hillsides into arable fields, one small terrace at a time. and maintain their large families on what they raise. They never see as much cash as Nepal's annual per capita income of only $200.

We were led by Harry, who spent thirty-three years in a Gurkha (Nepalese) Regiment of the British Army--well traveled, intelligent, caring, humorous and, for my money, the very best. Our agent's operations in Nepal are subcontracted to Ker-Downey, a Texas-based company who lead adventure tours throughout the world. Ker-Downey, primarily former Gurkhas and Sherpas, own lodges in the Annapurna Range and have the only river camp on the Seti. Their accommodations are clean and comfortable; the food is far beyond the Nepalese staple of dal bhat (rice with lentil soup); and the employees are gracious. Touring in Nepal can be done on one's own but even Lonely Planet recommends travel with a trekking company. Facilities can range from sleeping, eating and bathing in the open to the lodges--with many options in between. The lodges are not akin to Western multi-star hotels but they are worth any extra cost in terms of amenities, security and privacy.

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