MEDLARS-A FRUIT FOR CONNOISSEURS


© Connie Krochmal
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I don't welcome frost. Yet it can actually improve some fruits, including some wine grapes (the wine is called ice wine) and medlars.

For small yards, medlar is the perfect fruit tree. This relatively unknown fruit may be getting the attention it deserves. They're covered in Lee Reich's "Uncommon Fruits," now out of print, but he does include them in his new CD-ROM.

They're hardy in zones 6-9 though they reportedly have survived in Geneva, N.Y. Related to apples and pears, this slow growing plant can reach 15-20 feet in height within 20 years. Medlar's beauty is what sets it apart. The large showy white flowers fade to pink. They bloom in late spring on new growth at the ends of the shoots. The small, greenish-brown fruits are decorative, and very unique in several respects. First, there's the open end, exposing the interior to view.

When picked after a hard frost, medlars are rock hard. Set them in a cool place to blet or ripen. Then comes the surprise. Medlars are the dessert fruit for connoisseurs. It has a spicy flavor you won't find in other fruits. Just fold the fruit pulp into whipped cream with a little sugar, and you'll have an instant dessert.

A number of commercial sites offer other recipes. Once you've tasted medlar jelly, apple pales in comparison. I first saw the jelly in a supermarket during a trip to London. Naturally I tried it, and was delighted. Following that, I asked friends to ship me more until my trees began yielding, which didn't take long (three years). According to the Museum of Garden History in England, medlars are harvested there in September.

When I bought my trees some years ago, few commercial nurseries offered them. I got them from one in Michigan that specializes in heirloom and hard to find fruit trees. Now they're available on-line from that nursery and others. Medlars have been in cultivation for several thousand years, and were one of the first fruit trees Europeans planted during the colonial period in America. The trees can be seen at Colonial Williamsburg. Enjoyed by the ancient Greeks and Romans, they dedicated it to the god Saturn. Theophrastus wrote about it. Romans introduced the tree to Britain. It was recommended by Charlemagne. Medlars were very popular in the Middle Ages. It is native to south central Europe, reflected in its Latin name (Mespilus germanica).

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