HEIRLOOM APPLES


© Connie Krochmal

American consumers are becoming more sophisticated. They're more willing to try unfamiliar varieties of apples. Judging by the growing popularity of heirloom varieties, there's a genuine interest in these antiques.

Why would anyone want to grow the heirlooms? In some respects, these are superior to the modern ones.

Disease resistance is an important consideration when buying fruit trees. This is especially important for organic gardeners. These connoisseur varieties are often tolerant or resistant to most apple diseases. Though this doesn't mean that all heirlooms possess resistance, they usually have fewer disease problems than most contemporary varieties.

When compared with the more bland-tasting, modern varieties, the antique ones are bursting with full-bodied flavor. Each kind is unique. I became interested in heirlooms after I found 'York Imperial' apples for sale in western North Carolina. From there, it's been a quest for great-tasting heirlooms.

Some people may have tasted an old variety, and found it tasted bitter. What's going on? Strangely enough, they're supposed to taste that way, because chances are they were traditionally used for cider.

Ray Reynolds, owner of One of a Kind Apple Orchard in Lansing, NY, is an expert on growing heirlooms. After all, he grows over 350 different kinds. He continues to plant more every year. In 2003 he began adding special cider varieties. According to Reynolds, the climate can affect the flavor of an apple. He's traveled all over the U.S. visiting heirloom apple orchards, and finds that the same variety may have a slightly different flavor from one growing zone to another.

So, if you're planning on growing them, try samples from plants within your climate. Every weekend Elderberry Pond Farm Store in Auburn, NY has apple tastings. Those in the New England area should definitely visit Old Sturbridge Village. The Village has over 100 varieties in its Preservation Orchard. Every fall, there's an apple tasting. During the event, the orchardist provides details on the fascinating history of each variety.

There's an interesting story behind every antique variety. That's part of the mystique of heirloom apples. When we grow or taste 'Esopus Spitzenberg,' it becomes meaningful when we know this was one of Thomas Jefferson's favorite varieties.

Many small specialty orchards throughout the country are now specializing in heirloom fruit varieties. Elderberry Pond, a certified organic farm, specializes in antique apples. Louis and Merby Lego have owned and operated the farm for over nineteen years. They grow fifteen varieties just for making sweet cider. In addition, the apples are sold in their farm store and at local farmer's markets. The farm also operates a CSA (community supported agriculture), whose members receive fruits as part of their shares during the growing season.

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