Travels in Ireland -There's more to Waterford than just Crystal.


© Stuart Buchanan MacWatt

In my previous article, I discussed a three day Theater Break to take in the International Wexford Opera Festival. Stay longer and enjoy the ancient embattled towns and villages nestling beside the meandering rivers Slaney, Barrow, Nore, and Suir as they meander south through the lush, richly pastured green countryside to the sea.

Waterford lies at the mouth of the River Suir a 40 mile drive from Wexford.on route 25. There is much to do and see in this historic town, founded by the Vikings in the 9th century and taken by the Anglo-Normans some 300 years later. For the majority of Americans however the draw is Waterford's world renowned crystal glass factory. The showroom, (which also features Wedgwood) and factory are open weekdays throughout the year. Wedgwood and Waterfords Crystal are now jointly owned. Enjoy the informative and entertaining 60 minute tour of the factory and see for yourself the various processes of creating a handcut, many facetted, glittering, piece of crystal artistry from a handblown white hot lump of crystal glass. Such workmanship has graced the tables and sideboards of royalty and nobility for over 200 years.

There is more to Waterford and Irish culture than crystal however. Take time to visit Reginald's Tower facing Adelphi Quay. Its 10 ft thick walls were home to Anglo-Norman Kings Henry II, John, and Richard 11, when they visited their Irish vassals, and houses an interesting collection of medieval artifacts. Waterford's Viking origins emerged to the light of day in the archeological excavations of the 1980s. Thousands of Viking artifacts unearthed during those digs can be seen at the Waterford Heritage Center in Custom House Parade opposite the ancient city quay. Both tower and Heritage Center are open throughout the week from June - September, and weekdays during the rest of the year.

Pause for a reasonably priced lunch in Waterford at the Old Stand Steak and Seafood in St. Michael's Street, where you will dine royally on just that - prime Irish beef in the restaurant, or local oysters washed down with a glass of champagne or 'Black Diamond' at the bar. Non carnivores are also well catered for with a good selection of veggie dishes.

There are many good privately owned bed and breakfast establishments in Waterford. I particularly like the look of Sion Hill House, an imposing Georgian house standing in 4 acres of rhododendron gardens overlooking the river and city. It is open throughout the year except the Winter Holiday Week. Ensuite rooms with full Irish Breakfast cost from 21 Irish Pounds per person.

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