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The '99 Solar Eclipse - A Cornish Experience


d inhospitable Bodmin Moor. They were harried, tortured, and suppressed throughout continental Europe in 1312 AD. on trumped up charges of satanistic practices. Their Mission Chapel is deserted, a nesting place for blackbirds and sparrows. But it is a peaceful Sanctuary still for today's wayfarer who stumbles upon Temple, the tiny moorland hamlet that grew up around the Knights' Hospice.

John Betjeman, the Late British Poet Laureate, lived, wrote, and died in North Cornwall. He is buried in St. Enodoc, the tiny medieval church dedicated to a 6th century Celtic missionary. It was once lost beneath the encroaching sands of the Camel estuary below Wadebridge, and is now encircled by the oceanside golf course of the same name.

The Brotherhood of Ruralists, latter day Pre-Raphaelites, worshipped their Muse and found inspiration to paint and to write here. They visit still, for one of their number, the remarkable painter, musican and author, Graham Ovenden, has built his own Camelot Castle in a lush green valley hidden beneath the moorland heights, cutting, polishing, and decorating every stone and architrave himself; a life's work, and an architectural masterpiece

To watch the eclipse, my Lady and I shall drive to the village of Cardinham lying on the southern edge of the Moor. We shall take the Ramblers footpath up to the ancient Stone Age hill settlement, a pennanular henge, overlooking the village and the rest of Cornwall.

This seldom used public right-of-way passes through Higher Treslea, an interesting old granite and slate moorland farmhouse and barns, on its way up to the site at the top the hill. The stunning views to the Atlantic in the West, whence the moon's eclipse shadow will come, are worth the climb through tumbled blackberry-covered hedgerows and golden broom on the upper pastures.

I have fond memories of summer afternoons up there long ago, looking for ancient knapped flint arrowheads, with none but the shrill delight of the unseen soaring Skylark for company.

On this occasion we shall take a picnic with us. We shall fill our Fortnum & Mason wicker hamper with a feast...a handsome Melton Mowbray Pork Pie from Liecestershire, some Farmhouse cheese, a round of red Cheddar or crumbly white Caerphilly perhaps, a crispy loaf of bread, some homemade pickled onions, green tomato and ginger chutney, and a bottle of our favorite Italian white wine Pinot Grigio from the vineyards by

The copyright of the article The '99 Solar Eclipse - A Cornish Experience in Royal Britain is owned by Stuart Buchanan MacWatt. Permission to republish The '99 Solar Eclipse - A Cornish Experience in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

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