Far from the 'Madding' Crowd


© Stuart Buchanan MacWatt

Celtic Cross
Don't let it be forgot
That once there was a spot
For one brief shining moment
That was known as Camelot.

Camelot. Alan Jay Lerner 1960

High summer in Cornwall is best enjoyed inland, away from the coast. In August the coastal resorts are packed to bursting with family holidaymakers. Inland, on empty Bodmin Moor, there is tranquillity and peace.

The high stone hedgerows of the picturesque narrow lanes on the moorland edge are bedecked in their summer glory of wild flowers, dancing buttercup and daisy, blackberry and fern, and are relatively free of cars. Marked by ancient Celtic crosses, witness to a bygone age of myth and miracle, they wind their leisurely way to small sleepy hamlets like St. Kew - granite cottages roofed in the local Delabole slate, and to ancient towns dominated by weatherbeaten medieval churches with embattled, square-towered belfries. Campanology, the ancient art of bellringing, is alive and well here, as is the social activity in the local pub after the pealing! Pulling bell ropes on a summer's evening is thirsty work!

You are in moorland Cornwall; a land of narrow valleys filled with oak and rhododendron, where babbling leats of crystal water run off the windblown granite uplands of the moors. Some say this was Camelot.

It is an enchanted land of timeless stone circles, dolmens and quoits. They stand stark against an Atlantic-blue summer sky, sacred memories of half forgotten Ancient Ways and holy mysteries.

The rugged wayside Celtic Crosses bear weathered granite witness to a new Faith that blossomed here 1500 years ago with the coming of Petroc, ascetic Welsh missionary and fabled miracle worker of the early saintly Celtic Church, who set up his cell next to a holy well at Bodmin.

They say that the heroic King Arthur, whose memory spawned a thousand legends, was born in these parts. Tintagel, his legendary castle, stands here upon a windswept clifftop overlooking the Atlantic waves which thunder and spume into Merlin's Cave hidden in the granite cliffs below. A silent ruin now, his castle gathers mystery, as ravens circle its fallen ramparts.

Perhaps it was here at Slaughterbridge by the River Camel that Arthur fought his last battle. It was to nearby Dozmary Pool, the bottomless lake on Bodmin Moor that Excalibur, his magickal sword, was returned by Sir Bedivere to to the Lady of the Lake.

Celtic Cross
Merlin's Cave
Lady of the Lake
Barley Splatt
The Holy Grail

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Here's the follow-up discussion on this article: View all related messages

7.   Aug 15, 2004 10:33 AM
In response to message posted by thebattwoman:

Its a great place to go riding in the summer. Come to think of it I must check t ...


-- posted by Travelsleuth


6.   Aug 11, 2004 6:54 AM
In response to message posted by jerrib:

Loved the moor and Jamaica Inn. It was easy to visualise Daphne's book after I'd been ...


-- posted by thebattwoman


5.   Jul 27, 2004 4:58 PM
In response to message posted by Travelsleuth:

Oh, no! Sounds like some of our bad midwest winters. Thank goodness somebody was ...

-- posted by jerrib


4.   Jul 27, 2004 5:02 AM
In response to message posted by jerrib:

The poor moorland sheep didnt find it very quaint!! They got completely covered and ha ...


-- posted by Travelsleuth


3.   Jul 26, 2004 1:17 PM
In response to message posted by Travelsleuth:

What an experience. I think being "snowed in" would give one pause to write more. ...

-- posted by jerrib





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