Home » Travel » Royal Britain » The Tranquil Scilly Isles - Arthur's Lyonesse. Page 1.

The Tranquil Scilly Isles - Arthur's Lyonesse. Page 1.

© Stuart Buchanan MacWatt

Travelsleuth Stuart Buchanan MacWatt visits the tranquil sub-tropical Isles of Scilly off the coast of Cornwall, fabled Lyonesse of Arthurian legend and paradise of flowers, birds and empty beaches of silver sand. Accommodation and travel tips.

Spring comes early to Britain's Isles of Scilly, the fabled Lyonesse of Arthurian myth. Warmed by the Gulf Stream which started its journey in sunlit Caribbean waters, this archipelago of 140 Atlantic islands is clustered within a radius of just seven miles and lies twenty-eight miles off the tip of Cornwall. Untouched by snows and frosts of a mainland winter, they enjoy a charmed climate for so northern a latitude. Farmers on the five inhabited islands take advantage of the subtropical conditions that the Gulf Stream brings to their sunlit shores. They specialize in growing commercial narcissi which they gather for the December markets in London and Paris so that ladies can display a bowl of Spring daffodils in their Mayfair flat or appartement off the Champs Elysee along with the more seasonal festive holly and mistletoe. They also grow 'new potatoes' of exquisite and distinctive flavor which are the perfect minted accompaniment to the local freshly caught fish or spring lamb.

We too can take advantage of this micro-climate, enjoying the delights of a Scillonian Spring when the rest of Europe remains clothed in winter gray, suffering April snow showers or late frosts at the beginning of May. These are idyllic months on Scilly. The hedgerows, tiny fields and the shores of the five inhabited islands; St. Mary's, Tresco, St. Martin's, St. Agnes and Bryher, are vibrant with spring flower and sea thrift, butterflies and bird song. Their beaches of fine silver sand, littered with myriad mermaid jewels of gleaming seashells, are empty of crowds and scoured by the daily surge of the Atlantic tides. They are deserted. Your beachcombing footsteps in the virgin sand will be the only ones for the incoming tide to wash away.

All five inhabited islands offer limited accommodation, but most visitors opt to stay on St.Mary's, the largest island which also boasts Scillies' sole harbor port and town, Hugh Town. The 'new' Scillonian, the latest in a long line of round-bottomed shallow draught sea ferries plies daily from Penzance in mainland Cornwall to docks here at midday after a sometimes rolling crossing in rough seas that will test your sea legs. It brings visitors and island supplies. Its predecessor was honorably retired to work the calmer waters between the Pacific islands of the Kingdom of Tonga. A quicker crossing is made by passenger helicopter or light plane from Penzance to St. Mary's small airport or the newly opened helipad at Tresco.