Gourmet Foods at England's Game Fair


© Stuart Buchanan MacWatt
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The CLA Game Fair, Europe’s largest countryside festival, opens on Friday and will draw visitors from all over the world to Shuttleworth Old Warden Park, near Biggleswade, Bedfordshire. Its original venue 20 miles away in the 3000 acre park of stately home Woburn Abbey, seat of the Dukes of Bedford, was cancelled because of the potential of hoof and mouth infection to the Abbey’s famous deer herds.

Despite the ongoing ravages of hoof and mouth which has cut a swathe of misery through parts of England’s countryside, this year’s show is exuberant and reminds us of the joys of our historic rural heritage and just what is at risk in the hills and dales of what Shakespeare described in Henry V as ”the world’s best garden”. 650 exhibitors are representing a range of countryside pursuits, rural crafts and cottage industries. Country sports are well represented with exhibitions and hands-on demonstrations of archery, clay pigeon shooting, falconry, game fishing, gundog events and the increasingly popular 4x4 driving. Britain’s new passport for pets laws will allow European gundog teams to participate for the first time, giving the Brits a run for their money.

Gourmets will be drawn to the festival’s Hall of Food which is featuring organic foods together with a wide variety of cottage and specialist farm produce not normally seen on supermarket shelves. As well as a magnificent array of fragrant English cheeses on offer from all over the country, spicy mustards, marinades, boar, venison will be on sale. I gather that a number of English vineyards have stands and I look forward to sampling English wines from Cornwall, Kent, Sussex and the Isle of Wight. Despite punitive taxation of their liquid sunshine, English vineyards are making a comeback after centuries of neglect for viticulture, the expertise for which was first imported to England together with the vines in Roman times. Bob Lindo’s Camel Valley Vineyard near Bodmin and the St. Samson Vineyard in Golant-by Fowey, both in Cornwall, are now producing some excellent red and white still and sparkling wines from a variety of grape sorts. I recently looked at the wines of Rosemary Vineyard near Ryde on the Isle of Wight which show great promise and I hope to return to this subject, dear to my heart, in due course.

Prince Charles attends the festival on Friday and I have little doubt we shall see him sampling in the Hall and receiving inspiration for new products in his admirable range of ‘Duchy Originals’ comestibles, some of which should be stocked in every good kitchen parlour. The appearance of the Prince of Wales on a festival walk-about will be

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