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The Isles of Scilly - England's subtropical Paradise

© Stuart Buchanan MacWatt

This article has been updated with latest accommodation and travel recommendations and expanded with additional material under the new title 'The Tranquil Scilly Isles - Arthur's Lyonesse' on 27 March 2002.

Spring comes early to the Western shores of Britain. Dramatically so to the Isles of Scilly, the fabled Islands of Lyonesse in Arthurian legend. Warmed by the Gulf Stream which started its journey in sunlit waters of the Carribbean, they lie twenty-eight miles off the tip of Cornwall.

Taking advantage of a subtropical climate, farmers on these emerald islands specialise in growing narcissi and daffodils, which they gather for the London and Paris Christmas markets.

We can take advantage too, enjoying the delights a Scillonian Spring when the rest of Europe is still clothed in winter gray.

April, May and June are idyllic months. The hedgerows and fields of the five inhabited isles,(out of a total of one hundred), St.Mary's, Tresco, St.Martin's, St.Agnes, and Bryher, are vibrant with spring flowers and alive with bird song. Their beaches of fine silver sand and myriad seashells gleam from the daily surge of the thundering Atlantic tides. They are deserted - your footsteps will be the only ones for the incoming tide to wash away.

Although all five inhabited islands offer accommodation, most visitors opt to stay on St.Mary's, the largest and liveliest. The Scillonian, the daily sea Ferry from Penzance, docks here atHugh Town, the Scilly Islands' only port and town, picturesque with its tiny flower bedecked granite cottages and yacht harbour.

The port's "Old Town", with its craft and gift shops, is dominated by the imposing Star Castle, a 17th century garrison fort and now a hotel with Dungeon Bar!

The harbourside boasts some lively hostelries offering traditional pub fare and Westcountry brews- look for"Wreckers", a worthy keg beer from the local St.Austell Breweries. Freshly caught lobster, crab and mackerel are popular choices in the restaurants.

Hugh Town has comfortable hotels, and plenty of bed and breakfast accomodation, which traditionally provide their guests with a stomach-stretching cooked breakfast to start the day: orange juice, muesli, fried eggs, bacon and sausages, toast and marmalade. I stayed at the historic Tregarthens Hotel, where Alfred, Lord Tennyson, the great Arthurian poet, was a frequent visitor. It is said that he found the tranquility of Scilly a perfect background for his muse.

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