Soups: Part 19


© Andrew A. Orr

NATURALLY THICKENED SOUPS: POTAGES

CREAM SOUPS

In Step 4 the abrupt temperature change "breaks" the roux, or stops the thickening action, and the roux dissolves readily in the cold stock with the help of some vigorous blending. It is at this point that the ultimate texture of the soup is determined. It is important to use cold liquid to dissolve the hot roux. If you add hot stock to hot roux, little balls of roux that wont dissolve are likely to form. Although you can strain these out of the final soup, their thickening power is lost and the soup will be thinner than it was supposed to be.

After a successful Step 4, Step 5 is no problem. The hot stock blends right in.

The thin liquid of Step 5 thickens as it nears the boiling point. After it has thickened, add the cream or milk (Step 6). If you add milk sooner, it may curdle.

Simmer the soup until done. "Done" is the point at which the soup reaches the taste and texture the cook is aiming for. The broccoli should be completely cooked and the liquid should have the desired broccoli taste. Cooking time will average 30 minutes. It may take more time or less, depending on quantity and other variables.

The texture of the liquid should be smooth, its consistency slightly thicker than that of ordinary whipping cream. Adding cream or stock in Step 7 after straining may thin the texture. Blending in beurre manie may thicken it.

Does this all sound complicated? It is. But this is a technique you will use over and over so learn it well.

Soup can be used as a meal starter. The one problem with soup as the first course is, they tend to be sizable, and they fill a huge pit in your stomach. If you serve soup before a meal, make small quantities so that guests won't eat scanty amounts of the main dish. You do not want leftovers Anyway, any cook will say, the chief gratification in making a meal is when your guests gobble up the main course, and afterward being unable of concealing a loud belch.

Soup is better as the main course of a meal, particularly during football season when a sit down meal at the table is an unfair requirement and the only company you want are a few girls/guys from the office who care more about the game than being offered a goody bowl. Dipping a cup in a huge pan of soup is the most effective way to serve and be served during a time-out. Just don't forget to put crackers on the coffee table. Such and error might result in an inopportune dash to the kitchen. You are likely to miss something that will decide the game. Sure they show replays, but you can't say you really saw it if you don't see it as it happens. Another benefit of soup is that it doesn't timing. Once it is made, it can sit for hours to be devoured any time. Soup can be made from almost anything. Thus, making soup is a good way to get rid of leftovers. You can toss any kind of meat into a pot of water along with some onions, potatoes, salt and pepper; and in an hour have a nice pot of soup.

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